I introduced View A of the Ice Cream Dress in my last post, and I talked about some of its features. In this post I want to show you some of the other options included in the pattern.

View B is a color-blocked version of the dress. When we were developing this pattern we made the dress in brown, soft pink, and cream. The resulting dress reminded us of a bowl of Neapolitan ice cream, which in turn inspired the name for the dress. You can mix and match colors and prints to your heart’s content with this version of the dress.

Unlike View A, this version has only a single layer of fabric at the bottom panel, which makes it appropriate for heavier fabrics or for very warm weather. You can also switch construction techniques if you want to make a double hem on View B, or use the View B construction technique for View A. You have lots of options depending of the weight of the fabric you choose.

View C is a blouse-length version that pairs nicely with a skirt or shorts during warm summer months. Last summer I made this blouse from a Liberty print for S. She wore it everywhere and got loads of compliments on it.

We’ll be making up many more dresses and blouses from this pattern in a variety of prints and fabrics for this summer. I think the dress will make a terrific swimsuit cover-up, but it would also dress up beautifully when made in silk dupioni or taffeta, too.

We’ve had several requests for yardage requirements for the new patterns. In response, we’ve posted them in the discussion forums. Here are the links:

• Ice Cream Dress
• Music Class Blouse + Skirt
• Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

Happy fabric shopping!

A quick note for our wholesale customers. We’ll have a five-item trunk show featuring our newest styles available this spring and summer. If you’re interested in hosting the show in your shop, please contact us at information@oliverands.com to arrange a date.

Last year my Grandma sent me a copy of Needlecraft magazine from 1925. In it I saw illustrations of very simple children’s kimonos, and it occurred to me that it was time for these darling little “frocks” to make a comeback.

This is a simple version of those little dresses. The dress has an easy silhouette much like a little smock dress but with a more flattering fit. I think the shape is fresh and fun and leaves lots of room for your creative expression. You’ll see this in the next few posts when I introduce you to the many options you can select in this pattern.

All three views included in the pattern feature a unique one-piece yoke with a V-notch at the front neck and a button-loop closure at the back.

This dress is quite easy to sew since there are no sleeves or shoulder seams. Of course that means there aren’t a lot of pattern pieces, too.

We spent a good deal of time time researching the best construction method for this dress, and I’m really pleased with the result. The yoke is lined so the inside looks the same as the outside. The hem of View A is also made from two layers of fabric. If you stitch the sides of the dress with French seams, the inside of the dress will be as beautifully finished as the outside. I love including details like this that a good seamstress will appreciate.

View A of the pattern also includes pockets with a notched detail that matches the notch at the yoke.

For this pattern we suggest using light- to medium-weight woven fabrics like quilting cotton, broadcloth, lawn, shirting, poplin, fine-wale corduroy, silk taffeta or dupioni, and linen.

I made this version of the dress in linen and cotton last fall, and S wore it over a long-sleeve T-shirt with tights and a cardigan all winter. It looks great layered, so you’ll be able to use it all year long–not just during the spring and summer.

We’ve rated this pattern’s difficulty as two of four scissors. I can’t wait to see what you make with it! And I’m excited to show you Views B and C in my next post. Stay tuned!

It’s finally time to take the wraps off what we’ve been working on in the studio for the last several months and give you a preview of our new spring and summer patterns.

This season we’re releasing three new patterns: a cute little blouse and skirt outfit, a classic shirt and shorts outfit for boys, and a stylish smock-style dress.

As usual with our patterns, each of the styles has been designed to be very versatile, and they all include many different options. And, in response to your requests, we have expanded our sizing up to 12 starting this season.

So, without further ado, here’s a preview of the line.

The Music Class Blouse and Skirt is a sweet, sophisticated outfit that’s as appropriate for toddlers as it is for tweens. The skirt features an unusual side pocket and a pleated hem detail. The blouse can be made with either short or long sleeves and with a traditional blouse collar or a band collar.

The Sketchbook Shirt and Shorts pattern provides a classic version of a child’s shirt with a button-front placket and shirt-tail hem. Like the Music Class blouse, this shirt can also be made with long or short sleeves and either a traditional or a band collar. The simple knee-length shorts have an elasticized waist and a mock fly and are very easy to sew.

The Ice Cream Dress features an interesting one-piece yoke  with a V-notch at the front and a button loop closure at the back neck. It can be made in two different styles or as a blouse to pair with your favorite skirt or shorts during summer months.

The patterns will be available in stores worldwide and on our website starting on April 5. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter to be notified when the patterns begin shipping. Wholesale customers can place pre-orders now by downloading the form from our Wholesale page.

Over the next three weeks we’ll be publishing more detailed posts here that highlight all the options included in each pattern. Check back frequently to see what we have in store for you this spring.

A Selfish Seamstress haiku: The Selfish Seamstress

Shopping lists as inspiration: Uppercase

Pictures of defaced money: Money Mumbo Jumbo

What comes after the iPad?: Gizmodo

Sewing for a new baby, “You do know they come out naked, don’t you?!”: Colette Patterns

We got two feet of snow in New York last week: The Worley Gig

How grad school is just like kindergarten: PHD Comics

How much is an Olympic gold medal worth?: Luxist

First-hand account of the tsunami from an acquaintance who was moored in the harbor of Robinson Crusoe Island off the coast of Chile: Smiling Footprints

We’re continuing our series of posts highlighting participants in the Boutique Sewer Program by introducing Gail Keyes from Louisville, KY. Gail sells her work through her boutique sewing business, Guurrrl Designs.

Why don’t you start by telling us a bit about yourself.

I am in my mid-thirties, currently residing in Louisville, KY. But I consider the mountains of Asheville, NC home.  I work full time as an office manager for a manufacturing company, although I dream of someday being able to work from home, have a family, and move back to the beautiful mountains of Asheville.

When I was growing up my Dad and Step-Dad were in the Air Force.  This gave me the opportunity to travel around the country and even abroad for three years in Italy.  I have a box of greeting cards and letters that I carried with me from move to move.  Even now, as an adult, when I move I will unpack every single thing and put it in its place except for that box.  It’s always ready for the next move.

I love the scents of fresh-cut grass, cakes baking, babies’ heads, and driving past a cow pasture.  The last one must have something to do with me missing home.

Tell us a little about yourself and your background. When and how did you learn to sew?

I started out sewing puppets when I was in elementary school.  Later on my Granny and Aunt taught me how to sew Barbie clothes.  Then, in my senior year of high school, I decided that I didn’t want a dress off-the-rack even though I had never made anything larger than a Barbie outfit.  My prom date’s mother said that she would teach me to sew it.  It was a great experience–from picking out the fabric, to learning to piece three separate patterns together to create a dress that I truly loved.  From that point I was hooked.

In my early twenties, I worked on beading several gowns for pageants and made many stage costumes.  However, it was when I started making clothing for my niece and other children that I discovered my true passion was sewing children’s clothing.

I had been completing my college degree at night from 2007 through September of 2009.  When I graduated, I decided to start a 365-day challenge to create something new every day for the next year.  Several of my friends joined me in the challenge.  Prior to that, I had a 10 year hiatus from sewing.  After I posted a few of my challenge entries, I was encouraged by a friend of mine, Renee of Candy Stick Lane, to open up an online boutique.

How did you first discover Oliver + S patterns?

I first discovered Oliver+S patterns while browsing photos of children’s clothing on Flickr.  I came across the Tea Party Playsuit and then visited the Oliver+S Flickr group.  I was instantly in love with the classical designs.

How did you come to participate in the boutique sewer program?

I actually decided to participate when I ordered my first Oliver+S pattern–the Sailboat Skirt/Pants and Top in the winter of 2009.  I thought that it would be a really great Christmas outfit for my nephew.  I opened a  boutique on Etsy in September 2009 and had been dying to try the Oliver+S patterns.  I figured, why put the boutique program on hold? I ordered a couple of licenses with my first pattern order.  I ended up making the Sailboat skirt for my shop, before I completed my nephew’s Christmas outfit. The program has given my shop a lot of exposure.

I love the detail included in the Oliver + S patterns, and I look forward to the day when I have each pattern in my collection.

How do you choose fabrics for the garments that you make?

It depends on the item.  If it is a custom item, based on a customer’s specific request, I will fulfill that.  However when I am making something as an expression of my creative design, a color (or even the texture of the fabric) will instantly stand out for me. I will then pair other fabrics with the first.  I would say that most of the items I sew are made from cotton.  I also have an addiction to Japanese prints.  I especially love many of their linens and tiny prints.

What other crafts do you pursue?

Other than sewing children’s clothing, I also have an interest in digital photography.  I received a digital SLR camera last year, and I am still learning the ins and outs of it.

While opening my shop, I was trying to come up with gifts and small tokens of appreciation to include with my packages.  While walking through the craft store, the polymer clay caught my eye.  I was instantly hooked.  I am drawn to making miniature food jewelry and buttons from polymer clay.

Beading has also been a passion of mine since I was in high school.  However, after a few years of making beaded gowns and costumes, I only like to bead small projects now.

What have you done to market your business that has been successful for you?

I am rather new to the business and am still learning on a daily basis.  I think what has worked for me so far is using networking to my advantage.  I am visible on several social networking sites, and the exposure that I have gotten from the Oliver+S website had definitely increased the visibility of my shop.  I launched my blog around the same time that I opened up my Etsy shop.  It has allowed to me to share my creativity and keeps me continually inspired by others.  I also use my blog to let customers know about specials and giveaways.  I also had professional business cards printed that I share with everyone.

What plans do you have for the future?

I try to only look a few months at a time down the road.  There are so many things that I want to do, including being able to make more outfits at a time.  I plan on adding a line of T-shirts to my shop that display my artwork. They will fit children and adults.  I would also love, love, love to take a knitting class.  I envision cardigans, leg warmers, and hats to coordinate with the outfits in my shop.

Here we go again. Another blizzard, another snow day with no school here in New York.

I was just thinking about foot gear for the day and decided on a pair of wool socks. This reminded me that I hadn’t linked to  my latest post on the BurdaStyle blog which discusses different types of natural fibers used to make fabric.

If you’ve always wondered why wool, rather than cotton, socks are the best choice for a day like the one we’re having here in New York today, you’ll find the answer there.

Stay warm and dry this weekend.

Over at my personal blog today, I have a post up about making Tsia an Oliver + S Tea Party Sundress using Natalie Chanin’s techniques. Here’s the result.

See the details, and some spreads from Natalie’s new book on disdressed.

I measured S the other day. She just keeps growing, and I was curious about her size now that she’s five. She’s a particularly long and lean kid, so I wasn’t surprised to find out that her waist, chest, and hips measure a size 3 while her height measures a size 5.

Chances are you’ve faced a similar issue. You’re ready to sew for your child (or yourself), but the body that will be wearing the garment doesn’t have the same measurements as the sizing chart on the pattern envelope.

Not to worry. It’s easy to make pattern adjustments to accommodate these differences. I’ve put together a little tutorial to show you how.

Picking the correct splicing spot

First, assemble all the pieces you’ll be lengthening or shortening. It’s important to make the same changes to all the matching pieces, so be sure you’ve got the pieces for the front and the back of the garment.

In general, the best location for lengthening or shortening a dress or shirt is halfway between the bottom of the armhole and the hem. For pants or a skirt, the best spot is halfway between the rise/crotch and the hem.

Here are a few illustrations showing (with a horizontal line) the recommended lengthen/shorten locations for some of our patterns.

Sailboat Top, sleeve: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

Sandbox Pants: lengthen halfway between the rise/crotch and the hem

Tea Party Sundress: lengthen skirt halfway between top edge and hem

Sailboat Top: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

Birthday Party Dress: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

By adding or subtracting length in the middle of the piece, you won’t affect the hem or the general silhouette as much as you would if you added to the bottom of the piece. However, use your best judgment here. Depending on the style, you might want to pick a slightly different place to do your splicing.

I prefer to lengthen or shorten at a notch (when a notch is available) so that I can be sure to position matching or opposing pieces at the same location. For example, on the Tea Party Sundress, I lengthened the lower of the double notches. Don’t forget to do this for all the pieces involved: front and back!

When you’ve selected the spot at which you’ll make your splice, draw a line on the pattern piece at the spot. The line should be perpendicular to the grain (or fold) line at the point where you want to lengthen or shorten the piece. Remember: draw this line at the same position on all the pattern pieces you’ll be changing.

Then, starting with one piece, cut the pattern along your line to divide it into two separate pieces.

To lengthen

To add length to a pattern piece, tape a strip of paper under one of the two pieces, and extend the grain line (or fold line) across the strip of paper as in the illustration below.

Draw a line parallel to the cut edge of the pattern piece, marking the amount of length you want to add. For S, I usually add between one and two inches, but it’s a good idea to refer to the Finished Garment Measurement chart on the back of the pattern envelope so you know how long the original pattern will be when it is finished. This will help you to decide how much to add or subtract from the piece.

Tape the other part of the pattern to the line you drew. Be sure to match the extended grain line, even if the sides of the pattern don’t appear to match.

Finally, draw the edges of the pattern piece onto the strip of paper you inserted. You’ll need to draw either a straight line or a curve. If the edge is straight, simply connect the two sides of the original pattern piece with a line. If the edge is curved, you may need to blend the edge, subtracting a bit from one line and adding to the other. Use your eye to extend the curve so it looks blended with the rest of the pattern edge as in this illustration.

To shorten

To shorten a pattern, fold the pattern piece back on itself to remove the extra length and tape the pieces together, again maintaining the grain or fold line.

Redraw the sides, blending any curved lines to make a continuous curve just as you would with a lengthened piece.

Sandbox Pants: overlap at the cut line to shorten

Again, don’t forget to make the same adjustments to all the pattern pieces, both front and back. There’s nothing worse than forgetting to add length to part of the pattern.