puppet show shorts

This may very well be my favorite piece in our first collection. I designed these shorts for Tsia (aka "S") last year, and she wore the prototype all summer long. They looked so cute that I knew they had to be included in the line.

Initially we called these the "bloomer shorts," but we were afraid the name might be a bit confusing and too long (there are only so many words you can fit comfortably on the pattern envelope, after all). Still, the combined name really is an excellent description of the design; they're more shorts than bloomers, but they have a little bit of gathering at the leg openings that hints at bloomers without being too old-fashioned. In fact, I think they're downright modern. I've seen several high-fashion grown-up versions of shorts like these on the runway over the past few seasons, and they're adorable, although perhaps not quite as adorable on me as on those chopstick-legged models. Or on little girls.

The shorts are also very simple to make. One of the downsides to combining our patterns into outfits is that one difficulty rating applies to the entire outfit. Thus, the puppet show outfit is ranked a "three scissors" difficulty. (In truth, however, it's not really a difficult style; it just takes a bit more time and patience because of the sleeves and cuffs.) The shorts by themselves would probably be rated a one- or two-scissors difficulty level. They're quite simple to make and come together very quickly.

Here they are in action last summer. (The tunic isn't my design.)

Please note that there is one correction to the pattern: before attaching the bias binding at the leg opening, be sure to trim one end of the binding by 1 1/2" to allow for the gathering and bloomer effect.

See our errata page for a diagram of the correction and for updates and revisions to the other patterns.

We're already breaking out the bloomer shorts at our house; today it's supposed to be in the high 70's!

pressing things

What? You mean that you don't take your ironing board outside on nice spring days? I don't usually either, but I've really been tempted with all this lovely weather we're having.

Really, I just wanted to show you a few of my favorite sewing tools.


Like many sewing teachers, I emphasize good pressing skills almost as much as the actual sewing skills in my classes. You just can't get good results with your sewing if you don't press carefully as you sew. But in truth, the only time I pull out the ironing board is when I first get ready to cut my fabric. Then I press the full yardage with lots of steam before laying it out on my big cutting table and arranging the pattern pieces. The better the fabric is pressed, the easier it is to cut and, later, to sew.



But after that one-time ironing board set-up, my sleeve board and point presser are my friends who accompany me to the sewing machine. Many years of steam have dis-colored the sleeve board, which you can purchase almost anywhere. Someday when life is a little less crazy, I'll re-cover it (it just needs a new muslin covering, but you could make it look pretty with your favorite printed cotton as well). It's a great mini ironing board so I'm not constantly getting up to move to the big ironing board. But it's also great for pressing seams open and for pressing curves, since it has less surface area and enables me to press small areas.


My all-time favorite pressing and sewing tool, however, is difficult to find these days. It's called a point presser and clapper. I purchased mine when my tailoring professor at FIT showed the class how useful it can be. The clapper (bottom portion) is used by tailors to flatten and compress collar bands and other areas where many layers of fabric are sewn together. I press all sorts of things with it: use your iron to heat and steam the fabric, and then flatten the fabric with the clapper and you'll have a terrifically crisp finish without potentially scorching your fabric (or your fingers). The wood holds the steam and heat beautifully.

But the point presser (the top part) is my favorite: that straight, narrow edge is great for pressing seam allowances, and the point at the tip is a necessity for getting corner and points pressed perfectly. The trouble is, June Tailor doesn't make this tool anymore! Where to find it? I've looked all over the garment district here in NYC and none of the old-school shops can get them anymore. Fortunately, our friends at Waechter's carry them!

The iron I use at the studio is a hand-me-down from my Grandma, who upgraded to a Rowenta just as I moved into the studio and needed a second iron. Eventually I'd love to get an Oliso so I can leave it on and facing down--much safer with the kiddo running around the studio in the afternoons.

Ok, time to bring the ironing board inside again. I just realized we don't have a long enough exension cord for outside pressing!

fresh orange

This awesome twosome was sewn by Aimee (of Betsy Ross Patterns fame) for the new Spool shop in Philadelphia, and I love everything about them.

Aimee clearly understands the Oliver + S "look." Her choice of colors (neutrals with a shot of brilliant orange), prints (sophisticated and bold but not overpowering), and buttons (cute but not "cutesy") are perfect. And I love her use of the Michael Miller Organics line.


The end result is a clean, fresh simplicity that's perfect for spring and summer.

You can read more about Aimee's choices on the Spool blog. Personally, I'm looking at orange with a fresh eye again.

meet Megan

Every once in a while I meet someone with whom I just click, as though we've known eachother for many years. Megan is one of those people.


We met a little over a month ago when Tsia and I dropped by our favorite kids' store after a visit to the pediatrician. Gotta do something fun after getting stuck by a needle, I say. Megan was working at the store (and still does, four days a week), and we started talking about a few random things, Oliver + S included. She later tracked me down via the website, and here she is!

You'll probably hear from Megan here and if you phone or email us. She handles most of our customer service, fills orders, schedules trunk shows, and finds us great vegetarian lunches when she's at the studio. And she'll be at Quilt Market in Portland as well, so please stop by and introduce yourself! I think you'll enjoy working with her as much as I do.