Archive for February 2010

February 26, 2010

why wool socks keep feet warm and dry

Here we go again. Another blizzard, another snow day with no school here in New York.

I was just thinking about foot gear for the day and decided on a pair of wool socks. This reminded me that I hadn’t linked to  my latest post on the BurdaStyle blog which discusses different types of natural fibers used to make fabric.

Sources for natural fiber fabrics

If you’ve always wondered why wool, rather than cotton, socks are the best choice for a day like the one we’re having here in New York today, you’ll find the answer there.

Stay warm and dry this weekend.

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February 25, 2010

alabama studio style meets brooklyn style

Over at my personal blog today, I have a post up about making Tsia an Oliver + S Tea Party Sundress using Natalie Chanin’s techniques. Here’s the result.

See the details, and some spreads from Natalie’s new book on disdressed.

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February 23, 2010

lengthening and shortening a pattern

I measured S the other day. She just keeps growing, and I was curious about her size now that she’s five. She’s a particularly long and lean kid, so I wasn’t surprised to find out that her waist, chest, and hips measure a size 3 while her height measures a size 5.

Chances are you’ve faced a similar issue. You’re ready to sew for your child (or yourself), but the body that will be wearing the garment doesn’t have the same measurements as the sizing chart on the pattern envelope.

Not to worry. It’s easy to make pattern adjustments to accommodate these differences. I’ve put together a little tutorial to show you how.

Picking the correct splicing spot

First, assemble all the pieces you’ll be lengthening or shortening. It’s important to make the same changes to all the matching pieces, so be sure you’ve got the pieces for the front and the back of the garment.

In general, the best location for lengthening or shortening a dress or shirt is halfway between the bottom of the armhole and the hem. For pants or a skirt, the best spot is halfway between the rise/crotch and the hem.

Here are a few illustrations showing (with a horizontal line) the recommended lengthen/shorten locations for some of our patterns.

Sailboat Top, sleeve: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

Sandbox Pants: lengthen halfway between the rise/crotch and the hem

Tea Party Sundress: lengthen skirt halfway between top edge and hem

Sailboat Top: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

Birthday Party Dress: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

By adding or subtracting length in the middle of the piece, you won’t affect the hem or the general silhouette as much as you would if you added to the bottom of the piece. However, use your best judgment here. Depending on the style, you might want to pick a slightly different place to do your splicing.

I prefer to lengthen or shorten at a notch (when a notch is available) so that I can be sure to position matching or opposing pieces at the same location. For example, on the Tea Party Sundress, I lengthened the lower of the double notches. Don’t forget to do this for all the pieces involved: front and back!

When you’ve selected the spot at which you’ll make your splice, draw a line on the pattern piece at the spot. The line should be perpendicular to the grain (or fold) line at the point where you want to lengthen or shorten the piece. Remember: draw this line at the same position on all the pattern pieces you’ll be changing.

Then, starting with one piece, cut the pattern along your line to divide it into two separate pieces.

To lengthen

To add length to a pattern piece, tape a strip of paper under one of the two pieces, and extend the grain line (or fold line) across the strip of paper as in the illustration below.

Draw a line parallel to the cut edge of the pattern piece, marking the amount of length you want to add. For S, I usually add between one and two inches, but it’s a good idea to refer to the Finished Garment Measurement chart on the back of the pattern envelope so you know how long the original pattern will be when it is finished. This will help you to decide how much to add or subtract from the piece.

Tape the other part of the pattern to the line you drew. Be sure to match the extended grain line, even if the sides of the pattern don’t appear to match.

Finally, draw the edges of the pattern piece onto the strip of paper you inserted. You’ll need to draw either a straight line or a curve. If the edge is straight, simply connect the two sides of the original pattern piece with a line. If the edge is curved, you may need to blend the edge, subtracting a bit from one line and adding to the other. Use your eye to extend the curve so it looks blended with the rest of the pattern edge as in this illustration.

To shorten

To shorten a pattern, fold the pattern piece back on itself to remove the extra length and tape the pieces together, again maintaining the grain or fold line.

Redraw the sides, blending any curved lines to make a continuous curve just as you would with a lengthened piece.

Sandbox Pants: overlap at the cut line to shorten

Again, don’t forget to make the same adjustments to all the pattern pieces, both front and back. There’s nothing worse than forgetting to add length to part of the pattern.

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February 22, 2010

notice a difference here?

Probably not. And that’s good because we tried to keep things looking familiar.

Over the weekend we gutted and rebuilt the Oliver + S blog and upgraded the forums. Boring tech stuff, mostly, but there are some nice new features you might want to take advantage of:

  • If you have logged into the forums and you jump over to the blog, you’ll already be logged in for leaving comments.
  • All individual post pages now have a section in the sidebar suggesting “similar posts.” If you like a post, follow the links under this heading to read similar items from the archives.
  • If you leave a comment on a post, you can choose to be notified by email when follow up comments are left.
  • We’re using a new and improved method for verifying that comments are left by real readers. (My new favorite time waster is clicking on the audio icon in the box under the comment field and listening to the little snippets of old-time radio broadcasts that play.)

If you experience any issues as a result of these changes, please let us know by leaving a comment or emailing us at information@oliverands.com.

While we’ve been preparing to make these changes, we’ve held back new blog posts. We’ll have some good ones, including a tutorial on lengthening and shortening patterns, appearing here later this week.

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February 11, 2010

notches

Handmade shoes: The New York Times

Don’t underestimate 10 year-olds: No Reservations/You Tube

Fire-breathing snowman: Neatorama

How to store and organize cats: I Have Seen the Whole of the Internet

Cappuccino foam art: Design Inspiration


The cars of my youth, on the streets of Brooklyn today: AFC

Are you happy?: Dude Craft

Anti-theft lunch bags: Marginal Revolution

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February 4, 2010

notches

Save pens; use Garamond: Flowing Data

How to report the news on TV: You Tube

How a counterfeit bill fights corruption: The World Bank


Ever seen a Gandhiwarmer?: Hi Low & In Between

White on white: Erasing

Moving a giant sculpture, by helicopter: ArtBabble

Protectors of art, Sentry and Guardians: Andy Freeberg Photography

Bulletproof fashion, “I shoot all my employees”: CNN

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February 3, 2010

boutique sewer profile: Jeanie Taylor

We’re continuing our series of posts highlighting participants in the Boutique Sewer Program by introducing Jeanie Taylor from Cape Cod, MA. Jeanie sells her work through her boutique sewing business, The Pea Green Boat.

Jeanie, why don’t you tell us a little about yourself and your background. When and how did you learn to sew?
I live on Cape Cod in a magical house in the woods. It was created by and for a local potter on the grounds of his pottery, and every time I drive home through my own sculpture garden, I feel very lucky. My home is temporary, but one of the things the last year has reminded me is that everything is temporary.

I grew up on the coast of Texas in Port Arthur, hometown of Janis Joplin and Mary Karr. I climbed trees and hung upside down on the trapeze in my backyard, and I read and read and read. My mom sewed a lot, and my job was hand sewing the hems. The first real garment I made was in junior high in home ec, and I am pretty sure I never wore it. It was turquoise, some kind of tunic, and to my eyes really ugly.

When I graduated from college I worked for a year as a newspaper reporter, and one day I found a Singer treadle machine in the classified ads before they went into the paper. It cost $10, and it served me well for a long time. As a reporter I covered the Miss World USA Pageant, and for the ball (where the winner was escorted by the police chief dressed in a too-short brown suit) I made my escort beautiful wool formal bib overalls with a cummerbund and silver buckles. I also made my wedding dress, a sweet 1970s cotton dress, perfect for a simple wedding in the yard.

Over the years I made all kinds of things for my kids and myself. During a year spent in Scotland I got the chance to use Liberty fabrics, viyella, and other fabrics that weren’t available in my local store. I did smocking and used Folkwear patterns to make clothing for family and friends.

In addition to making clothing I used my imagination and fabric to decorate our world. Our 1920s house had a sleeping porch that we used as a playroom. It had lots of windows and yellow walls, and I made soft, puffy, satin clouds to hang from the ceiling. For Christmas I made smaller versions of the clouds with hanging ribbon rainbows to hang on the tree and puffy satin hearts to add to the evergreen garland that twisted down the banister.

One of my part-time jobs when my kids were small was working in a fancy gift store that carried beautiful yarns. After months of looking at it and touching it, I decided I had to learn to knit, so my co-workers taught me. I loved knitting, and I made lots of sweaters for my kids and myself, doing very little sewing during those years.

Then I went from being a part-time worker with kids to being a full-time worker with kids to being a full-time worker with kids and a full-time graduate student, and all my crafting was put aside.

I took knitting up again a few years ago hoping that the occupation would help me stop smoking. I did stop smoking, but not because of the knitting. What did the trick was my son saying, “We want you to be healthy and well so that you can run around in the yard with your (future) grandchildren.”


How did you first discover Oliver + S patterns?

My first grandchild was born almost two years ago, and when I knew she was coming all my creative juices kicked in. I began searching for patterns for sewing and knitting, looking at fabric and yarn, and planning a lifetime of garments. Early in my search I discovered the Oliver + S patterns online, and I fell in love.


How did you come to participate in the boutique sewer program?
It never occurred to me that I would make clothing for sale, but two things led the way to the opening of my Etsy shop. I lost my job, and I wanted to make more garments than my granddaughter could ever wear.

A few months after my granddaughter’s birth, I got a new job in Boston to be closer to family. After thirty years in the Midwest, very far from the ocean, I moved east and started my job in September 2008. In January 2009, my new job disappeared in the chaos of the economy.

I moved from Boston to Cape Cod where winter rents were manageable and the ocean was almost at my door. It took a while for me to begin to imagine the Etsy shop, because I was sure that a new job was just around the corner. But gradually I got very excited about the idea of offering my clothing (and other things) for sale, and after a few months I got brave enough to call myself a boutique sewer.

How do you choose fabrics for the garments that you make, and what fabrics are you working with these days?
I have always loved fabric and yarn–beautiful colors, textures, and design. The fabric is a key part of everything I create. I prefer natural fibers and high quality fabrics, believing that the effort it takes to make a garment well should be matched by the quality of the fabric.

Right now I am working with some Liberty viscose, cotton laminate, cotton batik, and organic cotton fleece. I have a beautiful mola from South America that I plan to incorporate into a special dress.


What other crafts do you pursue?
I make all sorts of things like garlands and necklaces. I continue to knit, and I am venturing into a bit of quilting. I work part-time in an independent fabric store filled with quilters, and I am currently making an abstract silk quilted table runner.


What have you done to market your business that has been successful for you?
I am still learning how to market my business. The boutique sewer program is a wonde
rful opportunity to reach people who love wonderful design. I have also used the Etsy showcases to call attention to my shop.

What plans do you have for the future?

Given the last year I plan only a few months ahead, but my current plan for my shop is to spend the next few months really building up my stock so that I can place a web ad in a location that will call attention to The Pea Green Boat. I am also considering beginning a blog, perhaps.

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February 1, 2010

dressing for real life

We’ve fielded a lot of Formspring questions over the past few weeks, several of which have asked about how much sewing I do for S and what her wardrobe looks like.

I’m no Supermom, and I don’t even try to set myself the goal of making everything she wears. But we do have fun mixing and matching her wardrobe with things I’ve made and things we’ve purchased or have been given.


This weekend it was pretty cold here in New York, and yesterday we were meeting a friend for brunch. We wanted to wear lots of layers to stay warm on our walk to the restaurant. S chose her tights first, so that’s how her outfit started: with the mid-sized polka dot print. We picked out a long-sleeved thermal shirt for warmth, and layered a kimono-style top over it. (Yes, the Bedtime Story PJ top makes a great shirt, too.)


The floral print in the top was our large-scale print. Then we added the mini polka dot Sailboat skirt and topped it all off with her brown cardigan. There were a lot of patterns happening in this outfit, but we tried to pull it together with a tight color palette (brown and aqua) and a variety of scales in the patterns.

Sometimes it’s fun to do serious mixing and matching like this. Don’t feel limited to mixing only the tops and the bottoms that come together in the pattern envelope.

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