Everyone is excited about knits right now. I must admit, I didn’t have much interest in sewing knits when Moda first approached me with the idea of adding interlock to the City Weekend fabric collection. But when the sample fabric arrived, I realized what a wonderful opportunity I had been given. The fabric quality is simply amazing–unlike any knit I’ve ever used before. It’s substantial and stable, not spongy and fuzzy or thin and whimpy like so many knit fabrics.

Once I started using this interlock in the studio, I quickly remembered how easy and fun it is to sew with knits. I’ve been converted, and I’ve put together some tips and hints to show you how easy it is.

Getting Started

As with any fabric, wash and dry your fabric before you start cutting. Knits tend to shrink more than woven fabrics. The City Weekend interlock shrinks about 8% (which is substantially less than the 15% or more seen in many knit qualities), but you don’t want your beautiful project to get 8% shorter the first time you wash it, do you?

Use all-purpose thread and, preferably, a ballpoint needle. Also note that, whether you’re sewing on a standard sewing machine or a serger (see the guidelines below for sewing on a machine vs. a serger), be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew. Just feed it through the machine evenly for a nice seam. Interlock stretches on the cross grain and doesn’t “recover” as quickly as jersey knits. If you stretch as you sew, your finished garment can end up wider than you intended. Interlock doesn’t stretch much on the vertical grain, so pay attention to the direction of the stretch when you cut your fabric so you can take advantage of it.

Because the seam allowances for knit patterns are small (seam allowances for Oliver + S patterns are 1/2″, but for sewing patterns using knits we have reduced the seam allowances to 1/4″ to reduce bulk and to work nicely with a serger), mark notches with chalk, a fabric marker, pins, or by cutting them to extend outside the cut edge instead of cutting into the edge of the cut fabric. Here is an example of the notched edge of a knit:

Using a Standard Sewing Machine

Sew all seams with a stretch stitch (some machines have special stitches specifically designed for sewing knits) or with a narrow, shortened zigzag stitch, about 1/16″ wide by 16 stitches long (that is, eight zigs and eight zags to the inch).

While you can leave the seam allowances unfinished, I prefer to finish them together, stitching over the raw edges with a regular zigzag stitch.

Using a Serger

A serger will stitch, trim the seam allowances, and finish the seam allowances all at once. A three- or four-thread overlock stitch is suitable for most purposes. If you’re unsure of the fit, baste the seams first to check before stitching. Be sure to guide the fabric so only the 1/4” seam allowance is used as you stitch. Press seam allowances to one side unless otherwise instructed.

That’s not too difficult, is it?

Do you use Firefox? If so, you’ll enjoy this.

We’ve just released the latest Oliver + S persona for Firefox: our paper dolls dressed in the new Nature Walk and School Photo patterns. Why not use it to dress your browser in Oliver + S for back-to-school.

This versatile pattern is great for boys and girls. It’s a cool-weather pullover with color blocking for added interest. If you make it from light-weight quilting cottons, it can also be a great layering piece in not-so-cool weather, too.

One of my favorite aspects of this pattern is that you can select a heavier fabric as the base and a lighter printed fabric as the contrast. The base fabric forms a sort of lining for the full front and back of the pullover. This provides the insulation of the heavier fabric all over the pullover while the contrast fabric brings some visual interest. You might try pairing a solid color cotton fleece or terrycloth with a quilting cotton for the contrast fabric. The fleece or terry will line the pullover while the quilting cotton will make it more interesting on the outside.

Use the contrast fabric for the collar and neck facing for a fun little detail.

The kangaroo pocket is easy to sew and is fun for children to use. It extends all the way across the front of the pullover and is formed by the two layers of fabric. There isn’t a pocket bag, and the inside of the pullover has a clean finish.

This pattern will work best with woven fabrics, but feel free to experiment with knits, too. I’m looking forward to making it with fine-wale corduroy or lightweight stretch denim, but I might make one from cotton fleece for chilly fall days.

This pattern comes with a quick and easy knit pant, which we’ll discuss shortly.  And in my next post I’ll introduce you to sewing with knits. No, you don’t need a serger. And it’s incredibly easy!

A week or two ago I had a little brainstorm one morning and dropped into the Oliver + S discussion forums to ask if anyone wanted to give it a try. In fact, several people expressed an interest. Here is the original idea, roughly explained:

And here are the results. First, from Karmela G:

and from Jeanne Po (with further details here):

They both turned out so cute, and with so little explanation on my part! Anyone else care to try? Or to share an embellishment idea for one of the patterns?

If you live in the vicinity of Madison, WI (my home town!), come join me on September 1 at Gayfeather Fabrics, 1521 Williamson St., at 2:00 PM for a little presentation about Oliver + S. I’ll bring some samples made from our patterns and the new City Weekend fabric collection, talk about  how I started the company, and take your questions. I think S might join us too. Be sure to call and reserve a spot, since space is limited.

And here is my teaching schedule for the fall, if you care to join me for a class:

• September 19, Purl Soho, New York, NY: Learn to follow a sewing pattern while making the Music Box Jumper
• September 22-23, Children’s Corner, Nashville, TN: two-day workshop including the new School Photo Dress and a second pattern if time allows
• October 2, Cloth and Bobbin, Narberth, PA: knits workshop focusing on the Nature Walk pants, the Hopscotch top or dress, or both.
• November 13, Alewives Fabrics, Nobleboro, ME: workshop topic yet to be determined

If you’re interested in registering for any of these classes, you can contact the shop for details.

You’re going to ask for this pattern in adult sizes, I already know.

The skirt half of the Hopscotch pattern (I’ll publish a post next week on the knit top and dress pieces included in this pattern) is designed for woven fabrics and includes a button placket at the front to give it a tailored look. To make it comfortable and adjustable, the back waistband is elasticized.

But the best part is the Chinese takeout carton-inspired pockets. The little pleats at the top of the pocket are quite unique, easy to sew, and add a lot of interest to the skirt.

Choose from quilting cotton, men’s shirting, fine-wale corduroy, twill, denim, chambray, or linen for this pattern. It sews up quickly and includes some of the unique constructions techniques you’ve come to expect from our patterns.