Kleinformat is a new Austrian magazine about kids, design, and crafting. Each adorable cover features images from inside the magazine which double as stickers that can be peeled and used as desired. And the design inside is equally as clever and unique as the exterior.

If I could read German, I could tell you for sure. But I think each issue includes a feature on real-life interior design. There are a couple very cute houses featured in both of the first two issues.

I love the styling of the kids’ fashion features.

And the magazine also includes clever projects for adults and children, highlights of unique and well-designed new products, interviews with people who I’m certain are very interesting and have lots to say, a feature about visiting different European cities, and a large sheet of printed paper to be used for scrap-booking, gift wrapping, etc. Or at least that’s what it seems to be. I can’t read German and really, really want to be able to when I look at these magazines.

I learned about Kleinformat when the editor contacted us to adapt our Principles of Fabric Selection posts into a series of three articles for the magazine. Now I’m wishing I could read every upcoming issue.

Kleinformat also has a blog, and Google Translator does a serviceable job of translating it into English.

Note: today we continue the series of seam finishing tutorials by April Henry that we started last summer.

Bias Binding is a strip of material cut on the bias for extra stretch and often doubled.  It is used for binding hems, interfacings, or for edge decoration and is very useful for many sewing projects.  It adds a touch of embellishment to set your garment or project apart for a more professional appearance.  You can purchase ready-made bias or make your own.

Bias-making tools are helpful and efficient, but a good steam iron is the necessary tool.  I personally prefer to make my own bias binding because I can customize it to my project, but some of the old-fashioned vintage unused packages can be quite fun to put to use, too.  The focus of this tutorial will be set around making your own bias.

For a 1/4″-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1″-wide bias strips, for a 3/8″-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1 1/2″-wide bias strips, and for 1/2″-wide finished binding, you’ll need 2″-wide bias strips.  The following illustrations will show how you can enclose the raw edges of your seam allowances using the regular presser foot on your sewing machine or by way of an old Singer Attachment.

I prefer a 1/4″ wide finished binding, so my illustrations will reflect using 1″-wide bias strips.

Before binding, stitch your seam allowances as directed in your pattern instructions. With Oliver + S patterns, this is a 1/2″ seam allowance.  To follow with binding, trim the seam allowances to about 1/4″ [editor's note: by trimming your seam allowances to 1/4" the binding will finish at the seamline. To keep the bias binding further from the seamline so the bias doesn't add bulk, leave the seam allowances untrimmed].  Fold and press one long edge of the bias strip to the wrong side by 1/4″.  Pin the opposite long edge of the strip to the seam allowances with the right side of the bias strip facing the seam allowances and the raw edges aligned. Stitch the layers with a 1/4″ seam.

Press one long edge of the bias strip to the wrong side by 1/4".

Trimming your seam allowances slightly will help to ensure that your previous stitching lines are covered within the bias as it is folded over and stitched.Wrap the bias strip around the seam allowances so the folded edge just covers the first row of stitching. I like to re-press at this point so that my bias lies flat while I stitch it in place.  Then stitch the bias in place along its folded edge.

Stitching the bias-binding in place.

Finished bound seam.

This method is particularly useful for finishing seams on heavier fabrics.  (Be sure to choose a very lightweight cotton such as lawn or batiste so as not to add any unnecessary bulk at the seam allowances.)  Using a contrasting fabric adds that last finished touch to the inside of a garment, such as this Sunday Brunch Jacket I made for my daughter.

The following illustrations are shown using an old Singer Binder Attachment and 15/16″ wide bias strips.  (A little bit of trivia:  remember, the tutorial illustrating the Singer Hand-Crank Pinker?  Using a straight-edge disk, the cutting guide was specifically designed for 15/16″ maximum width cut for this very purpose!)

A Singer Binder was included as a standard basic attachment with most vintage Singer Sewing Machines but are still useful for today.  If you want to avoid the extra steps of pressing, this attachment will aid in stitching, folding, and binding the raw edges all at one time.  Granted, it does take a bit of practice to get the feel and direction to hold the bias strips correctly, but there is something fun about using tools from days gone by.

Binding a seam using a Singer Binder Attachment.

The engineering of this attachment basically allows only for traditional cotton quilting wovens to be used, but it is particularly helpful for quickly binding seams or binding the edge of a single layer piece of fabric (e.g., aprons, ties or sashes, bibs, collars, etc.) all in one pass. I only trimmed about 1/8″ from the seam allowance before applying the binding with the Singer Attachment, being extra cautious not to sew into the seam allowance itself.  You will find more ideas and samples at April1930s.com.

Bias is fed, folded, stitched and bound in place.

The bias strip is guided through the attachment while simultaneously being folded and stitched in place as it encloses the raw edge of the seam allowances. You can use this attachment for a variety of bias-width cuts, but the maximum width allowed through the binder is 15/16″.

Inside seam showing a bound seam allowance using the Singer Binder-Attachment.

When you are finished, be sure to press the seam allowance in the proper direction as directed in your pattern instructions.

Press the seam allowance in the proper direction for a professional finish.

Adorable, printable and free thread bobbins for your embroidery thread: wild olive

Make your own gift card-holding (or other useful purpose-serving) monsters: white waxflower

Waxing furniture to add age and character: design sponge

Turn a paperback book into a custom hardcover: ohdeedoh

Great ideas for saving summer memories: Martha Stewart crafts department

These would be a great project for kids! Tutorial for making beautiful friendship necklaces: honestly…wtf

Good advice for any graphic design student: Frank Chimero

It’s a book: YouTube

Inspiration for making a cute and fun lunch: two straight lines

If you needed another excuse to sew this month besides National Sewing Month, how about Kids Clothing Week?

Elsie Marley is once again hosting her Kids Clothing Week Challenge, from September 20-26. See her blog for details.

A thread chain has lots of uses. It can be a delicate button loop, it can take the place of the metal loop in a hook-and-eye closure, it can be used as a French tack to attach a lining to a garment near the hem, and it can make a subtle belt loop on a dress. Thread loops are crocheted, but they can easily be made without a crochet hook. I’ll show you how.

Start with a thread at least three times the length of the finished loop, plus extra for working. Begin by anchoring your thread in the garment at the location where you want the loop to start.

Take a small stitch next to the anchored thread, and don’t pull the resulting loop all the way closed.

Drop the needle and the end of the thread, and reach through the loop to pull the center of the extending thread through the loop, forming a new loop in the process. Don’t pull the end of the thread through the loop because the goal is to form a second loop.

Tighten the first loop, and proceed in the same manner, forming new loops.

Once the thread chain has reached the desired length, finish by pulling the needle and thread through the final loop to end it.

Finish by taking a stitch into the garment to anchor the end of the loop. Knot the end of the thread, and you’re finished!

If you’re using this technique to make a button loop for the School Photo Dress (View A), make the loop just inside the fold line for the collar (closer to the neck seam than the outside edge of the collar). Once the button and loop are fastened, the rest of the collar will fold over to partially cover them.

This Music Class skirt was sewn by IsabelDecibel, and I love how she added  contrast trim to the top of the pocket. The contrast stitching is a nice detail, too.

I was thinking the contrast fabric might be a cute option for the pleats at the sides, too. But maybe it’s too much.

What do you think?