I recently gave myself the same type of homework and spent the past three full days filling a sketchbook with page upon page of ideas for future sewing patterns. Hopefully when I look back at the designs I’ll find some useful ideas, now that the fall patterns are at the printer and it’s time to start work on the spring collection.

While I was in the studio, looking for some inspiration, I also came across some other sketches and thought you might enjoy seeing them. These are the spring sewing patterns, not in their first incarnation as preliminary ideas but as part of the package I send to Dan, our illustrator, each season, so he can paint the paper doll clothing. Among the many ways that I communicate with Dan are sketches I make showing him what the clothes should look like on the dolls. I also send photographs, fabric and color swatches, and lengthy notes about each garment. But the sketches are the most useful part of the package, I think. I can show exactly what the silhouette is: how long a skirt should be, how closely (or loosely) a garment should fit, where the pockets are placed and how the collar sits. Here is the Ice Cream Dress (sorry for the smudges; I generally work with pencil on vellum so I can draw directly on top of the a paper doll to get the proportions right.):

I get to pretend that I’m an illustrator when I do this, except that I use a lot of words to show what I mean. Dan doesn’t have that luxury. (On the other hand, he’s a professional illustrator; I merely need to communicate an idea, thank goodness.)

Here are the other spring patterns, just for the fun of it:

So I spell out (literally) a lot of information here, but there is one area in which I let Dan have complete control: I always suggest a few props to coordinate with the name of each pattern, and Dan chooses exactly which prop to draw and how to show it. He’s never disappointed me. My favorite prop is still the bunny slippers. After he finished the painting, I found an exact match for them and bought them as a prop for Quilt Market.

Ok, back to my sketches.

• Day 1
• Transferring markings to the fabric
• Interfacing, button loop and yoke

As a little inspiration, and to remind you that you can sew the Ice Cream Dress as a simple top too, here’s a photo taken this morning of S wearing her new top made from a recent Anna Maria Horner voile.

We both like the unicorns on the pockets. And we like the fact that the double gauze is a cool fabric for these insanely hot days.

If you haven’t already, join the Ice Cream Social and share what you make.

Hosted by Amy of Badskirt in Australia, the sew along promises to be great fun, and there are some nice giveaways to be had too. Check out the schedule for the month, and sign up to participate in the sew along’s Flickr group.

Our thanks to Amy for organizing and hosting the event.

Two days a week, we have the pleasure of working with Giulia, who lends her expertise to our sewing patterns and to some other projects that we’ve been working on. Giulia trained as a costume maker in Rome, London, and Paris, and on the days when she’s not working with us she constructs beautiful things in the costume shop at the Metropolitan Opera. We feel very fortunate to work with her, and she makes many valuable contributions to what we do.

Last week Giulia returned to Italy for her cousin’s wedding. She took along this silk dupioni Ice Cream Dress that she sewed for her niece to wear to the wedding. I love the colors she selected.

When she brought this little dress to the studio the other day, she hadn’t been able to find an appropriate button. We located this vintage orange button in our stash, which is just pinned into place for the photo. I think it finishes the dress beautifully.

And Giulia added a little surprise to her version of the dress. It’s fully lined, with the lining also made of silk using the View A pattern pieces. The dress could almost be fully reversible, although the button might need to be moved.

The lining changes the drape of the fabric and makes it look fuller, which is perfectly appropriate for a formal event like a wedding.

I can’t wait to see the things that all of you do with this pattern. Please share your creations with us in the Oliver + S Flickr group.

View each style’s pattern page to place your order:

• Music Class Blouse and Skirt
• Sketchbook Shirt and Shorts
• Ice Cream Dress

Happy sewing!

View B is a color-blocked version of the dress. When we were developing this pattern we made the dress in brown, soft pink, and cream. The resulting dress reminded us of a bowl of Neapolitan ice cream, which in turn inspired the name for the dress. You can mix and match colors and prints to your heart’s content with this version of the dress.

Unlike View A, this version has only a single layer of fabric at the bottom panel, which makes it appropriate for heavier fabrics or for very warm weather. You can also switch construction techniques if you want to make a double hem on View B, or use the View B construction technique for View A. You have lots of options depending of the weight of the fabric you choose.

View C is a blouse-length version that pairs nicely with a skirt or shorts during warm summer months. Last summer I made this blouse from a Liberty print for S. She wore it everywhere and got loads of compliments on it.

We’ll be making up many more dresses and blouses from this pattern in a variety of prints and fabrics for this summer. I think the dress will make a terrific swimsuit cover-up, but it would also dress up beautifully when made in silk dupioni or taffeta, too.

• Ice Cream Dress
• Music Class Blouse + Skirt
• Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

Happy fabric shopping!

This is a simple version of those little dresses. The dress has an easy silhouette much like a little smock dress but with a more flattering fit. I think the shape is fresh and fun and leaves lots of room for your creative expression. You’ll see this in the next few posts when I introduce you to the many options you can select in this pattern.

All three views included in the pattern feature a unique one-piece yoke with a V-notch at the front neck and a button-loop closure at the back.

This dress is quite easy to sew since there are no sleeves or shoulder seams. Of course that means there aren’t a lot of pattern pieces, too.

We spent a good deal of time time researching the best construction method for this dress, and I’m really pleased with the result. The yoke is lined so the inside looks the same as the outside. The hem of View A is also made from two layers of fabric. If you stitch the sides of the dress with French seams, the inside of the dress will be as beautifully finished as the outside. I love including details like this that a good seamstress will appreciate.

View A of the pattern also includes pockets with a notched detail that matches the notch at the yoke.

For this pattern we suggest using light- to medium-weight woven fabrics like quilting cotton, broadcloth, lawn, shirting, poplin, fine-wale corduroy, silk taffeta or dupioni, and linen.

I made this version of the dress in linen and cotton last fall, and S wore it over a long-sleeve T-shirt with tights and a cardigan all winter. It looks great layered, so you’ll be able to use it all year long–not just during the spring and summer.

We’ve rated this pattern’s difficulty as two of four scissors. I can’t wait to see what you make with it! And I’m excited to show you Views B and C in my next post. Stay tuned!

This season we’re releasing three new patterns: a cute little blouse and skirt outfit, a classic shirt and shorts outfit for boys, and a stylish smock-style dress.

As usual with our patterns, each of the styles has been designed to be very versatile, and they all include many different options. And, in response to your requests, we have expanded our sizing up to 12 starting this season.

So, without further ado, here’s a preview of the line.

The Music Class Blouse and Skirt is a sweet, sophisticated outfit that’s as appropriate for toddlers as it is for tweens. The skirt features an unusual side pocket and a pleated hem detail. The blouse can be made with either short or long sleeves and with a traditional blouse collar or a band collar.

The Sketchbook Shirt and Shorts pattern provides a classic version of a child’s shirt with a button-front placket and shirt-tail hem. Like the Music Class blouse, this shirt can also be made with long or short sleeves and either a traditional or a band collar. The simple knee-length shorts have an elasticized waist and a mock fly and are very easy to sew.

The Ice Cream Dress features an interesting one-piece yoke  with a V-notch at the front and a button loop closure at the back neck. It can be made in two different styles or as a blouse to pair with your favorite skirt or shorts during summer months.

The patterns will be available in stores worldwide and on our website starting on April 5. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter to be notified when the patterns begin shipping. Wholesale customers can place pre-orders now by downloading the form from our Wholesale page.

Over the next three weeks we’ll be publishing more detailed posts here that highlight all the options included in each pattern. Check back frequently to see what we have in store for you this spring.