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	<title>Oliver + S &#187; inspiration</title>
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	<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog</link>
	<description>The Oliver + S blog</description>
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		<title>happy mail</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/12/happy-mail.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/12/happy-mail.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Dec 2011 14:54:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=3364</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Don&#8217;t you love getting packages in the mail? We opened our mail the other day and were delighted to find this little book from Katie Prange, whom we&#8217;ve never met before. But I can tell that I like her already. &#160; &#160; She included a note that, if you can&#8217;t read it in the photo, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Don&#8217;t you love getting packages in the mail? We opened our mail the other day and were delighted to find this little book from Katie Prange, whom we&#8217;ve never met before. But I can tell that I like her already.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mail1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3365" title="package" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mail1-400x308.jpg" alt="package" width="400" height="308" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>She included a note that, if you can&#8217;t read it in the photo, says &#8220;I found this little book at a thrift store and it makes me think of the little guy on your patterns! I love his mis-buttoned sweater. I hope you enjoy it!&#8221;</p>
<p>Here is a page from inside the book. S and I loved reading and giggling over the poems:</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mail2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3366" title="mail2" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mail2-400x286.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="286" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>And even the endpapers are cute:</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mail3.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-3367" title="mail3" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/12/mail3-400x283.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="283" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>Thank you, Katie. A little package is making its way back to you. We hope it makes your day like you made ours!</p>
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		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
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		<title>details: colored thread</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/06/details-colored-thread.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/06/details-colored-thread.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 30 Jun 2011 18:49:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=2767</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Here&#8217;s a cute detail to consider in your own sewing. Each button on this blouse was sewn using a different thread color. This would be especially effective on a neutral-colored print (like the blouse shown) or on a solid color. It brightens up and highlights the mother-of-pearl buttons that were used, too.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Here&#8217;s a cute detail to consider in your own sewing. Each button on this blouse was sewn using a different thread color.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/buttons.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-2768" title="button thread" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/buttons-270x400.jpg" alt="" width="270" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>This would be especially effective on a neutral-colored print (like the blouse shown) or on a solid color. It brightens up and highlights the mother-of-pearl buttons that were used, too.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
			<wfw:commentRss>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/06/details-colored-thread.html/feed</wfw:commentRss>
		<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>do you pinterest?</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/02/do-you-pinterest.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2011/02/do-you-pinterest.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Feb 2011 17:02:37 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=2275</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If, like me, you think visually, you&#8217;re going to love pinterest! It&#8217;s like a virtual bulletin board where you can add images you find on-line, organize them to create different categories, and share them with other people. I&#8217;ve been using it for a few weeks now and just love it. It&#8217;s really fast to use, [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If, like me, you think visually, you&#8217;re going to love <a href="http://pinterest.com/" target="_blank">pinterest</a>! It&#8217;s like a virtual bulletin board where you can add images you find on-line, organize them to create different categories, and share them with other people. I&#8217;ve been using it for a few weeks now and just love it. It&#8217;s really fast to use,  and I&#8217;m able to save things I see and find them again later. It&#8217;s a fun way to gather inspiration, and I don&#8217;t have 32 browser windows open anymore&#8211;just 6 or 7 instead, which is a big improvement for me.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/pinterest.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-2276" title="pinterest" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/pinterest-400x219.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="219" /></a></p>
<p>If you&#8217;d like to give it a try, <a href="http://pinterest.com/invited/?invite=pin2831" target="_blank">click here</a> to sign up. You can follow my Pinterest pins by clicking on the new Pinterest link in the sidebar of the blog. Let&#8217;s share our inspiration with each other.</p>
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		<slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
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		<title>tiny sewing</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/11/tiny-sewing.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/11/tiny-sewing.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 23 Nov 2010 15:49:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1929</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[If you enjoy sewing for children, or for dolls, or for children and their dolls, you&#8217;ll be fascinated by the work of Charles LeDray. I wrote about LeDray&#8217;s show, workworkworkworkwork, at the Whitney Museum, over on disdressed. If you have a chance to see the show, it&#8217;s definitely worthwhile.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If you enjoy sewing for children, or for dolls, or for children and their dolls, you&#8217;ll be fascinated by the work of Charles LeDray.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ledray2.jpg"></a><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/charlesledrayplaid.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1936" title="charlesledrayplaid" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/charlesledrayplaid-334x400.jpg" alt="" width="334" height="400" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ledray.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1931" title="ledray" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/11/ledray-400x277.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="277" /></a></p>
<p>I wrote about LeDray&#8217;s show, workworkworkworkwork, at the <a href="http://whitney.org/Exhibitions/CharlesLeDray" target="_blank">Whitney Museum</a>, over on <a href="http://disdressed.blogspot.com/2010/11/in-miniature.html" target="_blank">disdressed</a>. If you have a chance to see the show, it&#8217;s definitely worthwhile.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>an interview with Marie-Michelle Melotte, part 2</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/10/an-interview-with-marie-michelle-melotte-part-2.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/10/an-interview-with-marie-michelle-melotte-part-2.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Oct 2010 15:11:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bubble dress]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[people]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[puppet show]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1817</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Marie-Michelle Melotte is back with us today to finish the discussion we began earlier this week. It&#8217;s clear that you&#8217;re not just picking out a pattern and then selecting a random printed fabric to make it. You&#8217;re really analyzing the specific style attributes of the design and then thinking about how you can create an [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Marie-Michelle Melotte is back with us today to finish <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/10/an-interview-with-marie-michelle-melotte-part-1.html" target="_self">the discussion we began earlier this week</a>.</strong></p>
<p><em>It&#8217;s clear that you&#8217;re not just picking out a pattern and then selecting a random printed fabric to make it. You&#8217;re really analyzing the specific style attributes of the design and then thinking about how you can create an interesting collaboration between the silhouette and a fabric in order to maximize the impact of the final garment. Where </em><em>do you find the inspiration that helps you do this so well?</em></p>
<p>I grab inspiration wherever it comes from. I sketch it out lengthily and watercolor it, debating color, fabric and modifications. It usually starts with books. And ends in a museum!</p>
<p>I’ve gathered kilograms of books on art history, theatre costume and fashion design, costume institute catalogues, historical and folkloric dress, and fabric. If I could, I’d spend my life haunting the likes of the <a href="http://www.vam.ac.uk/" target="_blank">V&amp;A</a> and the <a href="http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr/" target="_blank">Musée des arts décoratifs</a>. To touch that eighteenth century brocade! Damn the glass display case!</p>
<p>Back in the day when I was just a shallow and covetous fashionista with no sewing skills, I amassed some exquisite, mommy-incompatible pieces that have provided inspiration along the way. Rifling through a closet, yours, someone else’s, window shopping, street gawking, and patio side ogling can jolt innovation and the creative process in strange and unexpected ways!</p>
<p>Yves Saint-Laurent and Courrèges are always good muses with their simple shapes, clean lines, perfect cuts, and impeccable design. What more  can one ask for? When it comes to touch and architecture, Japanese  designers are surefire stimulation. Kawakubo Rei, Yohji Yamamoto, and eccentricities such as those of Hussein Chalayan always make me smile. You might not use it but it will trigger something.</p>
<p><em>Speaking of inspiration, you made a Bubble Dress a while ago that began from a pretty interesting jumping off point.</em></p>
<p>The Titania bubble dress! <em>A Midsummer Night’s Dream </em>must be one of my least favorite of Shakespeare’s plays. I never quite grasped the pixie flutter although I was spellbound by the headstrong character of the fairy queen. Inspiration here was literally literary.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Titania.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1823" title="Titania Bubble Dress" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Titania-310x400.jpg" alt="Titania Bubble Dress" width="310" height="400" /></a></p>
<p><em>An odorous chaplet of sweet summer buds, field dew and sweet peace.</em> A <a href="http://www.vogue.fr/defiles/printemps-ete-2008-milan-sportmax/2091/diaporama/defiles-2088/2837/pag/2" target="_blank">silk chiffon shift dress from Sportmax’s 2008 Spring/Summer collection</a> covered in circular embroidered and sequined appliqués provided supplementary inspiration, and when I stumbled across this dusty rose silk and cotton appliquéd fabric on a German website, I thought its use on a Bubble Dress might quite possibly lead into the delightful world of the wood nymph!</p>
<p><em>One of the things that I find so interesting about your work is that you avoid prints and allow texture to do all the work of providing visual stimulation.</em></p>
<p>I am in awe of highly audacious colour combinations and almost hysterical histrionics such as can be found in collections by Kenzo and Christian Lacroix, but I am shy when it comes to pulling it off myself.</p>
<p>For the moment, I’m comfortable working with subdued color palettes where texture has the predominant role. A bit like in Italian tailoring, I like to let the fabric speak for itself. It always will if it’s well chosen and showcased.</p>
<p>Texture (more so than color) means depth, plays on perspective, the tantalizing theatre of light and shadow! How fun and exciting is that?! I have one dress in particular up on a pedestal when I’m thinking about texture in a neutral tone, <a href="http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection_database/the_costume_institute/dress_evening_madame_gres_alix_barton/objectview_enlarge.aspx?page=4&amp;sort=5&amp;sortdir=asc&amp;keyword=&amp;fp=1&amp;dd1=8&amp;dd2=29&amp;vw=1&amp;collID=29&amp;OID=80002268&amp;vT=1&amp;hi=0&amp;ov=0" target="_blank">Madame Grès’ Antigone dress</a> at the Met Costume Institute. And one painting in mind, Jean-Baptiste Greuze’s <em><a href="http://www.louvre.fr/llv/oeuvres/detail_notice.jsp?CONTENT%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673394855&amp;CURRENT_LLV_NOTICE%3C%3Ecnt_id=10134198673394855&amp;FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=9852723696500815&amp;baseIndex=86&amp;bmUID=1180" target="_blank">La cruche cassée</a> </em>in the Louvre. Oh! The classical, not so virginal, bouillonné and twists of loveliness!</p>
<p><em>Tell us about the Puppet Show Tunic you made. There&#8217;s so much of interest going on in this garment, but there&#8217;s no print and no color.<br />
</em></p>
<p>This Puppet Show Tunic was made from an Alice + Olivia organic striped cotton and silk voile. The more opaque stripes are soft and slightly raised like on corduroy, leaving almost transparent and thinner stripes in between. Snap buttons covered with flat cotton mouliné buttons were used instead of buttonholes which I thought might weaken the delicate fabric with use.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Tunic.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1829" title="Puppet Show Tunic" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Tunic-384x400.jpg" alt="Puppet Show Tunic" width="384" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>The col claudine and puffed sleeves make this piece highly adorable and the pattern is one of my favorites. The fabric is soft, light and airy and I thought it would be interesting to use a somewhat &#8220;evanescent&#8221; cloth on a pattern with strong and well-defined elements, all in the name of contradiction.</p>
<p><em>You&#8217;re clearly unafraid to use high-end fabrics which is somewhat unusual for someone creating children&#8217;s clothing. Where do you find your fabrics?</em></p>
<p>I’m a fabric hound, constantly on the lookout! I spend a lot of time pouring through catalogues, and when I was  still living in France, I made frenzied trips across the Channel.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.stragier-couture.com/" target="_blank">Stragier</a> in Belgium and <a href="http://www.macculloch-wallis.co.uk/" target="_blank">MacCulloch &amp; Wallis</a> in the UK have true finds, although the price tag can quickly become quite steep. The US   has some great shops (<a href="http://www.emmaonesock.com/" target="_blank">Emma One Sock</a>, <a href="http://www.fabricsandbuttons.com/" target="_blank">Waechter’s</a>, <a href="http://www.hyenaproductions.com/" target="_blank">Hyena</a>, <a href="http://www.gorgeousfabrics.com/shop/index.php" target="_blank">Gorgeous Fabrics</a>) when it comes to finding affordable high end  fabrics. I have a list of my favorite fabric and haberdashery suppliers in the sidebar of <a href="http://rastacuero.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">my blog</a> listed under the heading &#8220;Fournitures Couture.&#8221;</p>
<p>I’m quite squirrelly in that I like to gather and collect items  from everywhere around the world, oftentimes ending up with a very  international garment. France, Belgium, Spain, Italy, England, Germany, India, the US, Canada. It’s all over the map. High end fabric, quality fabric, interesting fabrics can be found. You just have to dig for them and snap them up once they comes along as there isn’t an abundance of it that trickles out of the Ziploc of haute couture.</p>
<p>One is tempted to believe, based on history, <em>savoir faire,</em> and  reputation that France must be a treasure trove full of lovely fabric.  True. But it’s not available to the larger public. As with most things  in Europe, the best is as hermetically self-contained as might be  dandruff in Lagerfeld’s starched white coiffure. Open air markets, web shops, fabric boutiques, vintage clothing shops, estate sales, auctions, eBay, great-auntie’s attic, the remnants of your mother-in-law’s moth-eaten Chanel jacket. All and any of it can lead to the perfect find.</p>
<p>I only choose fabric with natural fiber content and use cotton and silk thread. To me, natural fabric feels fuller, richer, more real, and closest to life and I like to think that it’s a greener solution to man-made fabrics. Sometimes beauty can be very simple as long as you’re betting on quality. Do more with less, or so goes the minimalist motto. But maybe I’m too much of a purist.</p>
<p><em>Some of the high-end fabrics like these don&#8217;t lend themselves to the everyday wear and tear that most kids exert on their clothing. Are these garments you&#8217;ve been making more for show than for wear?</em></p>
<p>Most of the garments I make would be labeled &#8220;heirloom&#8221; or &#8220;special occasion&#8221; although that’s not my goal. I think it’s possible to dress children in things we’d initially like to think they shouldn’t wear, like silk and cashmere. Surprisingly or not, these fibers are quite hard-wearing. Sure, sweat suits are practical; throw them in the washer and you don’t even have to iron them! But they ain’t very pretty are they? If you’re wary of damaging clothing in your washing machine, then it should probably be washed by hand or handed over to the drycleaner. Better to spend a little time or money than ending up with a ruined garment.</p>
<p>Spot cleaning is also a good solution, especially on woolens. We often over-wash our clothes when sometimes a good airing out outside (also especially good for woolies) is quite sufficient to get clothes smelling of sunshine. (Please excuse the Stepford moment!) Natural fibers have a distinct smell that some people can find displeasing but that’s all part of the arrangement. Mother Nature has an olfactory label on her wares.</p>
<p>The boy things I make are for my son Félix, and it’s wholly endearing to see him out and about in something I’ve made. But my hands have always itched to make girly things, skirts that swing and oodles of dresses.</p>
<p>So my friends with girls get lucky around birthdays and Christmas! But I’m also looking at starting a small home business to sell the pieces that I make. It’s a way of gaining closet space and supporting my new-found sewing craze. Possibly, hopefully, soon there will be an e-shop.</p>
<p><em>You can follow Marie-Michelle&#8217;s creations on her blog <a href="http://rastacuero.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Rastaquouère</a>. She also contributes to the French language group blogs <a href="http://oliverslovers.canalblog.com/" target="_blank">Oliver + S Lovers</a>, <a href="http://cestdimanchefans.canalblog.com/" target="_blank">C’est Dimanche Addicts</a>, and <a href="http://www.defi13.com/" target="_blank">Défi 13</a>.</em></p>
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		<slash:comments>6</slash:comments>
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		<item>
		<title>an interview with Marie-Michelle Melotte, part 1</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/10/an-interview-with-marie-michelle-melotte-part-1.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/10/an-interview-with-marie-michelle-melotte-part-1.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Oct 2010 12:51:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Todd</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bubble dress]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fabric]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sunday brunch]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1797</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Every few months a photo pops up in the Oliver + S Flickr group that causes everyone in the studio to stop working and stare in amazement at their computer screens. It wasn&#8217;t until last week, after this Bubble Dress appeared (the description on the photo says it is a &#8220;butter coloured paisley motif on [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Every few months a photo pops up in the <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/oliverands/" target="_blank">Oliver + S Flickr group</a> that causes everyone in the studio to stop working and stare in amazement at their computer screens. It wasn&#8217;t until last week, after this Bubble Dress appeared (the description on the photo says it is a &#8220;butter coloured paisley motif on ecru Oscar de la Renta silk matelassé, cream cotton poplin lining&#8221;), that we put the pieces together. All these swoon-inducing garments are being sewn by the same person.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Bubble.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1798" title="Bubble Dress" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Bubble-386x400.jpg" alt="Bubble Dress" width="386" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>Once we realized this, we had to know more. And we thought you might like to know more too.</p>
<p>Marie-Michelle Melotte, the person making all these beautiful pieces, agreed to answer some questions about her sewing projects and her approach to finding and selecting such wonderful fabrics.</p>
<p><em>Why don&#8217;t you start by telling us a little about yourself.</em></p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Marie-Michelle.jpg"><img class="alignright size-medium wp-image-1801" title="Marie-Michelle" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Marie-Michelle-168x275.jpg" alt="Marie-Michelle" width="168" height="275" /></a>I was born and raised in the Canadian prairies at the foot of the Rockies in Calgary. My parents were francophone Mauritian immigrants (thus the French name) and I spent the better part of my childhood, when not sliding down snowy slopes or indulging in a pony obsession, amongst the pots and pans of the family restaurant.</p>
<p>With adulthood came the thirst for new geography, and I’ve spent the last couple of years gallivanting through Europe, a young boy cub of five years named Félix, in tow. Our little family has relocated back to Canada for the next few years, although the heart quietly yearns for a swift return to French life. When I’m not sewing, I can usually be found writing scathing short stories in French, baking pies, making seasonal jellies, and slaughtering magazines for collage work.</p>
<p><em>You&#8217;ve made some astonishingly beautiful garments from Oliver + S patterns. We were smitten by the Bubble Dress you made recently. Tell us about it. </em></p>
<p>That Bubble Dress is constructed from a beautiful piece of Oscar de la Renta silk matelassé. The fabric was substantial which allowed for first-rate draping and proportions at the bubble hem and reminded me of a pair of cotton brocade curtains I had in my room as a child but without the dreadful weight&#8211;which got me thinking about <em>The Sound of Music </em>and the scene where the Julie Andrews character transforms bedroom curtains into the Von Trapp children’s play clothes. (Yes, inspiration is strange, wonderful and musical!)</p>
<p>The subtle, raised, butter-colored paisley pattern on an ecru background provided good visual and tactile interest and it got lined in a plain cream cotton poplin so as not to detract from the main theme of the dress. The only modification brought to the pattern were snap button closures covered with Belgian flat cotton mouliné buttons.</p>
<p><em>What about your Sunday Brunch jacket?</em></p>
<p>This is made from chunky Italian wool covered with a fake cable knit crisscross. Since the fabric is quite bulky, although malleable enough to be a pleasure to work with, I chose to do the inside pieces with plain cream cotton poplin to keep the Michelin Man effect out of the picture. The rough-hewn buttons are from the good folks at <a href="http://www.wildwood.ca/buttons.html" target="_blank">Wildwood  Buttons</a> in British Columbia who use salvaged tree cuts to great  effect.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Jacket.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1804" title="Sunday Brunch Jacket" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Jacket-360x400.jpg" alt="Sunday Brunch Jacket" width="360" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>I’ve long been infatuated with one of my mother’s wool coats from the sixties she had bought in England before crossing the Atlantic thinking that her tailored European woolies would be tough enough for a Canadian winter! The ample cut of the Sunday Brunch Jacket combined with its Mao collar were dead ringers for the vintage coat, and I added the yew wood buttons to shake up the classical look and add a touch of pure <em>Canadiana</em>. I also enjoy how the faux cable knit acts as a throwback reminder to the strong checkered pattern of the über-Canadian lumberjack jacket.</p>
<p><em>You&#8217;re not timid about using high-end fabrics and taking on a  serious sewing project. When and how did you start sewing?</em></p>
<p>I used to be deathly scared of sewing machines. In junior high I  avoided the Home Ec room like the plague. I would’ve preferred being  strapped down to a chair making toothpicks all day in the Industrial  Arts lab with big, brawny boys! A combination of temporary psychosomatic  aichmophobia and past frustration at being unable to thread a machine  made me tell myself that I just couldn’t sew worth a damn and never  would. The years went by careless and needle-free.</p>
<p>In university, as a lit major minoring in drama, a compulsory design  course and too much time spent in wardrobe storage rekindled an old love  for drawing and moreover, drawing costume. So much so, that I was soon  spending more time doing character sketches (like these <em>Madwoman of Chaillot</em> costumes) than Saussurean semiotics.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Costumes.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1809" title="Costumes" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/10/Costumes-400x272.jpg" alt="Costumes" width="400" height="272" /></a></p>
<p>Pursuing costume design would have meant relocating to the other side  of the country or across seas and unfortunately, I’ve always been a bit  of a lackadaisical stay-at-home. As luck would have it, I got married to  a Frenchman, moved to France then to Cyprus and back to France, had a  baby, usual story.</p>
<p>It&#8217;s funny how children make you confront things you thought were  once done and over with. My former sewing terror got turned into a  passion. With the help of my mother-in-law’s patience and her forty-year-old cast iron dependable clunker of a Singer I was making cushion  covers and bunting flags for my little boy’s room and soon enough real  pants with real pockets, real coats with piping, and real shirts with  buttonholes! I soon realized that not having to shell out ten euros  every time something needed hemming was pretty cool too!</p>
<p>All of my sewing is that of a dilettante. I’ve learned as I’ve gone  along, bungling things, seam ripping, screaming, groaning, hair pulling  and generally lacking poise. But the finished result has always led to  dominant equilibrium. And a little cherub face saying, “My mommy made  it” is the best sort of heart tugging gratification I can get!</p>
<p><em>In <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/10/an-interview-with-marie-michelle-melotte-part-2.html" target="_self">the next post</a>: a Bubble Dress inspired by Shakespeare&#8217;s </em>A Midsummer Night&#8217;s Dream<em> and where else Marie-Michelle finds her inspiration. Until then, you can see more of her projects in <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/48329342@N06/" target="_blank">her Flickr photostream</a> and visit her blog, <a rel="nofollow" href="http://rastacuero.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">Rastaquouère</a>.</em></p>
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		<title>kleinformat</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/09/kleinformat.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/09/kleinformat.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 27 Sep 2010 11:28:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1660</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Kleinformat is a new Austrian magazine about kids, design, and crafting. Each adorable cover features images from inside the magazine which double as stickers that can be peeled and used as desired. And the design inside is equally as clever and unique as the exterior. If I could read German, I could tell you for sure. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Kleinformat is a new Austrian magazine about kids, design, and crafting. Each adorable cover features images from inside the magazine which double as stickers that can be peeled and used as desired. And the design inside is equally as clever and unique as the exterior.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/1a1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1661" title="1a" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/1a1-400x283.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="283" /></a></p>
<p>If I could read German, I could tell you for sure. But I think each issue includes a feature on real-life interior design. There are a couple very cute houses featured in both of the first two issues.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/41.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1664" title="4" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/41-338x400.jpg" alt="" width="338" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>I love the styling of the kids&#8217; fashion features.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/51.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1663" title="5" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/51-299x400.jpg" alt="" width="299" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>And the magazine also includes clever projects for adults and children, highlights of unique and well-designed new products, interviews with people who I&#8217;m certain are very interesting and have lots to say, a feature about visiting different European cities, and a large sheet of printed paper to be used for scrap-booking, gift wrapping, etc. Or at least that&#8217;s what it seems to be. I can&#8217;t read German and really, really want to be able to when I look at these magazines.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/61.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1662" title="6" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/61-329x400.jpg" alt="" width="329" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>I learned about Kleinformat when the editor contacted us to adapt our <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/labels/principles-of-fabric-selection" target="_self">Principles of Fabric Selection</a> posts into a series of three articles for the magazine. Now I&#8217;m wishing I could read every upcoming issue.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/21.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1666" title="2" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/21-309x400.jpg" alt="" width="309" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>Kleinformat also has a <a href="http://www.kleinformat-mag.net/" target="_blank">blog</a>, and Google Translator does a serviceable job of translating it into English.</p>
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		<title>music class inspiration</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/09/music-class-inspiration.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/09/music-class-inspiration.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 13 Sep 2010 12:49:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[music class]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1390</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This Music Class skirt was sewn by IsabelDecibel, and I love how she added  contrast trim to the top of the pocket. The contrast stitching is a nice detail, too. I was thinking the contrast fabric might be a cute option for the pleats at the sides, too. But maybe it&#8217;s too much. What do [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/patterns/skirts/patterns6.phtml" target="_self">Music Class skirt</a> was sewn by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/isabeldecibel/4911628150/" target="_blank">IsabelDecibel</a>, and I love how she added  contrast trim to the top of the pocket. The contrast stitching is a nice detail, too.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/music-class-skirt1.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1485" title="music class skirt" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/music-class-skirt1-265x400.jpg" alt="" width="265" height="400" /></a><br />
I was thinking the contrast fabric might be a cute option for the pleats at the sides, too. But maybe it&#8217;s too much.<br />
<a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/skirts.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1393" title="skirts" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/skirts-400x203.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="203" /></a></p>
<p>What do you think?</p>
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		<title>fall inspiration, courtesy of our testers</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/09/fall-inspiration-courtesy-of-our-testers.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/09/fall-inspiration-courtesy-of-our-testers.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 17:55:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hopscotch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[school photo]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1538</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Several of our pattern testers recently posted photos of their finished fall garments to the Flickr group, and we thought you might like a peek at them for some additional inspiration. A few Hopscotch skirts and knit tops, to get you started. This Hopscotch knit top was sewn by TribecaYummyMummy, who tested the pattern for [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Several of our pattern testers recently posted photos of their finished fall garments to the <a href="http://www.flickr.com/groups/oliverands/" target="_blank">Flickr group</a>, and we thought you might like a peek at them for some additional inspiration.</p>
<p>A few <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/patterns/skirts/patterns20.phtml" target="_self">Hopscotch skirts and knit tops</a>, to get you started.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-top.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1541" title="DSC_0008" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-top-304x400.jpg" alt="" width="304" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>This Hopscotch knit top was sewn by <a href="http://www.tribecayummymummy.com/2010/09/back-to-school-sewing-oliver-s-hopscotch-skirt-and-knit-shirt.html" target="_blank">TribecaYummyMummy</a>, who tested the pattern for us earlier this summer. This is one of the polka dot interlocks from our upcoming <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/04/announcing-our-new-city-weekend-fabric-collection-for-moda.html" target="_self">City Weekend</a> fabric collection. And check out the coordinating Hopscotch skirt, made with Heather Ross&#8217;s <a href="http://heatherross.squarespace.com/journal/2010/4/22/introducing-far-far-away-ii.html" target="_blank">Far Far Away II</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-top-and-skirt.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1542" title="DSC_0003" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-top-and-skirt-257x400.jpg" alt="" width="257" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>Here is another Hopscotch top and skirt, made by <a href="http://www.april1930s.com/" target="_blank">April</a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-april.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1539" title="hopscotch april" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-april-400x300.jpg" alt="" width="400" height="300" /></a>I love the neutral palette and pops of orange she picked up from the print and carried through on the neck trim and the skirt buttons.</p>
<p>And one more Hopscotch skirt, sewn by <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/thebigtradeoff/4953884109/" target="_blank">Karen</a>, another one of our reliable and dedicated testers.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-karen.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1540" title="hopscotch karen" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/hopscotch-karen-239x400.jpg" alt="" width="239" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>A few <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/patterns/dresses/patterns19.phtml" target="_self">School Photo dresses</a> have also popped up. This one was made by <a href="http://guurrrl.blogspot.com/2010/09/olivers-school-photo-dress-pattern.html" target="_blank">Gai</a>l, who tested the pattern and is also one of our <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/boutique/" target="_self">Boutique Sewer</a> participants. (By the way, Gail says this is her favorite Oliver + S pattern ever.).</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/DSC_6245gr.png"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1554" title="DSC_6245gr" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/DSC_6245gr-265x400.png" alt="" width="265" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>And yet another School Photo dress, sewn by the prolific and precise <a href="http://stitcheryfriend.blogspot.com/" target="_blank">April</a>, who made this with a heavier wool herringbone. (Warning: I don&#8217;t suggest that you attempt heavier fabrics with this dress on the first try. I think it would be rather challenging and was impressed that April made this work so well. And so beautifully, no less. Also, I think it was smart of  April to select a printed cotton for the ruffled collar and the sleeve binding, since the herringbone could be scratchy against delicate skin. The rest of the dress is lined, so it&#8217;s not such an issue elsewhere.)</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/school-photo-april.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1543" title="school photo april" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/school-photo-april-300x400.jpg" alt="" width="300" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>And one more adorable School Photo dress, View A sewn by <a href="http://thedillspiel.blogspot.com/2010/09/oliver-s-giveaway.html" target="_blank">Katy Dill</a>. Visit her blog to see a second version of the dress (View B) and for a chance to win a copy of the pattern.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/katy-dill.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1572" title="katy dill" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/katy-dill-265x400.jpg" alt="" width="265" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>So there you have it: a little additional sewing inspiration. Now, go have fun! I can&#8217;t wait to see what you make with the new patterns.</p>
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		<title>thinking about fall</title>
		<link>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/07/thinking-about-fall.html</link>
		<comments>http://www.oliverands.com/blog/2010/07/thinking-about-fall.html#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 24 Jul 2010 13:45:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Liesl</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fabric]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[inspiration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[school days jacket]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.oliverands.com/blog/?p=1017</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[For those of us in the northern hemisphere, it still feels too early to start thinking about fall sewing. After all, today the weather is expected to break even more records here in New York, after three solid weeks of mercilessly hot weather. But when I saw this Miu Miu ad in a fashion magazine [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For those of us in the northern hemisphere, it still feels too early to start thinking about fall sewing. After all, today the weather is expected to break even more records here in New York, after three solid weeks of mercilessly hot weather. But when I saw this Miu Miu ad in a fashion magazine I was immediately inspired. Wouldn&#8217;t that plaid wool make a terrific <a href="http://www.oliverands.com/patterns/jackets/patterns1.phtml" target="_self">School Days coat</a>?</p>
<p><a href="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/school-days.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-large wp-image-1019" title="school days" src="http://www.oliverands.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/school-days-333x400.jpg" alt="" width="333" height="400" /></a></p>
<p>This past Thursday morning I went shopping in the garment center and visited one of my favorite stores, <a href="http://www.fabricczar.com/" target="_blank">Beckenstein Men&#8217;s Fabrics</a> (I don&#8217;t know what the whole &#8220;fabric czar&#8221; thing is; I still call them Beckenstein&#8217;s but maybe they changed their name?), where they have a fantastic collection of high-quality wool fabric. The shop is loaded with other inspiring fabrics, too: Scottish tweed, Italian suiting, seersucker striped cotton, and melton wool in a wide variety of colors. And it&#8217;s all presented in a suitably old-school setting, too. It feels like the shop of a thread-worn gentlemen&#8217;s tailor, and when I visit I always wish I could stay to curl up on a chair in the corner with either a needle and thread or a good book.</p>
<p>I was shopping for S&#8217;s school uniforms, which I&#8217;ll be blogging about soon. But despite the weather, I&#8217;m also thinking seriously about winter coats. Maybe this year I&#8217;ll do something with a plaid fabric.</p>
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