I’ve been speeding through some sewing recently, testing the spring patterns and making a few things for S and for myself at the same time, and this has started me thinking about strategies for efficient sewing.

My personal sewing time is scarce because of a few projects we’re finishing up, and I need to make the most of it if I’m going to have anything made in time for spring (and a trip to Palm Springs in a week or so!).

A few of you mentioned an interest in this same theme, so here are a few thoughts about the topic.

photo by Laurie Frankel (un-used image from Little Things to Sew)

Ideas for more efficient sewing

1. If you’re able, cut out several projects at once so they’re ready for you when you have time to sew. When we’re not too busy, I sometimes take an afternoon or a few hours on a weekend to cut out several projects in advance. That way I’m ready to go when I finally have time to sew. Make cutting an enjoyable process by putting on some dance music to keep you going, and you could even invite a friend to join you so you can help each other cut out your fabrics and have fun in the process.
2. Gather all your materials before you start. It’s easiest to keep moving on a project if you don’t need to stop to find the right thread, buttons, or elastic. Once I cut out my fabric, I like to assemble all the notions for that project and put everything together in a large Ziploc bag so it’s ready for me when I’m ready to sew. If I’m missing anything I make a list and put it in my wallet so I can remember what I need when I’m at the fabric store. (And if you follow tips 1 and 2 together, you’ll have time to gather the missing items before you start sewing that project!)
3. Set up your sewing area so everything is convenient for you to sew efficiently. This doesn’t mean that you need a large sewing space. At home I sew in a tiny converted closet, so I keep a sleeve board and an iron next to my sewing machine. Rather than getting up to move to the ironing board (which is way over by the kitchen, about as far from my sewing machine as I can get in our apartment), I simply use the sleeve board when I need to press a seam or an edge. It saves lots of time and allows me to stay at the sewing machine. (Sometimes I get a little crazy and sew with the sleeve board on my lap so my sewing space is pretty much directly in front of me and I’m using very little movement to switch from sewing to pressing, but that’s a little obsessive and usually only happens if I’m in a serious hurry, I admit it.)
4. If you don’t have a dedicated sewing space, find a place to store your sewing materials together where you can easily get them out and quickly put them away again when you’re done. For a long time I sewed at the dining room table, and I kept my sewing machine and supplies in a large cabinet right next to the table so I could set up and take down my pop-up sewing studio in a matter of minutes.
5. Sometimes when you’re familiar with the steps involved in making a project you can set yourself up to sew multiple steps at the same time. For example, I often get everything ready to assemble the collar, make the pockets and sew the belt for a pattern all in one go. Then I move away from the sewing machine to press the seam allowances and set up my next little sewing binge. Note, however, that this usually works best if you’re already familiar with the sewing steps in a pattern, so be sure you’ve read through the pattern in advance and are familiar with the steps involved. If you’re a less experienced sewist you might want to wait until you’ve sewn the pattern once or twice before you attempt this. You need to be able to think methodically about the construction method to make this step work, so be careful you don’t overwhelm yourself and get confused.
6. I’ve said many times before, but one trick that works best for me is to set up the next seam before I quit sewing for the day. I don’t sew that seam, but it’s waiting for me the next time I sit down. This means that it’s easy for me to pick up again where I left off. I don’t need to think about what step comes next because it’s already waiting for me. Doing this helps to refresh my memory about what comes next, and it also helps me to jump back into sewing without reservations. I often sew just a seam or two a night, but I’m still making progress even with that very limited amount of sewing time.

Do you have any additional tips to share? I’d love to hear what strategies work well for you!

A little while ago on the Oliver + S discussion forums, one of the members introduced a topic that I thought was very interesting and timely. She mentioned that she had been doing some research on her family and had been thinking about how attitudes toward sewing have changed over time.  Not all that long ago, sewing was a necessity for many women, not a hobby or pasttime. Have attitudes toward sewing changed now that sewing is no longer a requirement to keep a home running and a family clothed?

I loved this topic and immediately contacted her asking if she would like to write a blog post about it. So now I’d like to introduce you to Tamara Kowald.

Tamara was born in Perth but raised in country Western Australia and now lives on a farm inland from Geraldton in the Midwest with her husband and two children. Since about the age of ten, sewing has been an important part of her life. She is sure it is “in the blood” as countless generations of her family have taken to needle and thread for work and pleasure.

Since receiving her first sewing machine at 18, Tamara hasn’t looked back and now spends alot of her sewing time, machine sewing rather than needleworking which is her first love. Tamara loves working with natural fiber fabrics and exploring new options to create different elements that compliment the patterns she works with. Although not completely self taught, Tamara learned the majority of her sewing knowledge through books and by watching and conversing with other sewists.

Here’s her post.

I’ve been spending some time just recently, researching some of my family history and throughout this time, I’ve been thinking about how the women in my family have viewed and valued the skill of sewing. I’ve always wondered whether they saw this as a chore or if they actually liked to sit and stitch beautiful things for their homes and families.

Whichever way, you look at it, throughout history, women have viewed sewing as a valuable skill to be used in a myriad of ways. Prior to the industrial revolution, women conducted their sewing by hand and made everything from linen to clothing and in between. Even after, during the two world wars, women entered the workforce and used their sewing skills to make parachutes and uniforms for their men along with all the other sewing at home. Women had no choice but to make things as the motto goes during the Depression “Make do and mend.”

In some cases these periods in our recent history would have been difficult. Could this have changed some women’s attitudes somewhat today?

I had a brief conversation with the home economics teacher at my local school this morning and she was saying that her 8th grade students needed to be taught the simplest of sewing skills, simply because most of them didn’t even know what a sewing machine looked like! She also offered information about the younger generations of her own family who are grown and how they don’t mend or sew anything. They pass the things that require mending onto her!

Why is it that only some of each generation continue this most valued and often unappreciated skill?

Looking back into my own family history, I have always known that within my mother’s family, the women were almost born with a needle and thread in their hands. Whatever undertaking they had been assigned to in their lives, they still took time out to work the needle and thread and later (once it was invented and readily available) utilised the sewing machine.

I have memories of my childhood where I was desperately trying to make a dress for my Barbie doll and I was attempting to do the humble blanket stitch. I was about 10 years old at the time and not allowed to go near the sewing machine. It was my paternal grandmother, the one who couldn’t sew a stitch that helped me master this most simple start to what has become such an important part of my life. Later on, my other grandmother (the one whose own mother was a professional seamstress) showed me how to lay out a pattern and cut it out. I could never work out why she didn’t sew more clothing when she knew so much.

For some of us, it was our mothers who paved the way. But for me it was these two most inspiring women who sowed the seed that has grown into a passion.

I found out later why my grandma didn’t sew clothing and the reason to this was because she didn’t like doing the everyday type clothes sewing. She would however, make a dress once a year for my mum to wear to the annual local show (fair).

When I’ve discussed the topic of sewing with my friends, they have quite mixed reactions. Some of them learned to sew in school and had been taught by their own mothers but they seem to have put their enjoyment for sewing aside to make way for other things. In short, they claim they have “no time” to sew.“

Finding the time is always a potential problem but if our attitudes to sewing reflect our need to sew, then, we would make the time and effort to sew. It’s simple!

I don’t believe that sewing is a dying art at all. I mean it is evident that it will always be there to fall back on. But I do believe that our priorities have changed our attitudes towards sewing. I’ve heard so many exclamations over the last week with “I love to sew but…” and there is always some excuse attached.

I find it extraordinary how through history, women sat together to sew shirts for the poor and chat. How they sat together to teach their daughters to sew and through this developed positive attitudes within the next generation. I also find it pleasant to realise that those of us who sew today really enjoy the process. And that is a good thing.

Illustrations courtesy of April Henry of April 1930′s.

Many of you have emailed and called to ask for an updated version of our sewing syllabus that includes some of our newest patterns. So here it is. I’m thrilled that so many of you are making good use of the patterns to improve your sewing skills.

Absolute Beginner
You know the basics of how to operate your sewing machine, but you’ve never sewn a garment. Here’s your place to start.

Lazy Days Skirt: This free downloadable tutorial will help you get comfortable with your machine and will allow you to demonstrate to yourself that, yes, you can sew a garment. This very easy tutorial doesn’t involve an actual sewing pattern and is a perfect place to start for absolute beginners. It also involves a minimum of supplies. You’ll learn to make a simple elasticized waistband and a very easy ribbon hem that gives the skirt its finished appearance. This skirt doesn’t even require you to finish your seam allowances, so it’s fast and simple to make.

Popover Sundress: This free download for a simple sundress provides a good introduction to sewing from a pattern. It also teaches you how to apply bias binding, which is frequently used in sewing projects. You can also have fun with combining different fabrics and adding a variety of trims to this dress.

Music Box Jumper: This is an easy beginner’s pattern with some elegant details that results in an impressive finished dress. The pleats and buttonholes are slightly more challenging than the Popover Sundress but still very manageable. If you simply can’t bring yourself to try buttonholes yet, use snaps instead of buttons.

Music Class Skirt: The skirt portion of this pattern is very simple, but the finished results are quite impressive. You’ll learn how to make simple pleats and a very easy built-in pocket on an elastic-waist skirt that builds on the ease of the Lazy Days Skirt tutorial.

Sketchbook Shorts: These shorts look impressive but are very simple to make. They include easy pockets and a waistband that can be elasticized all the way around or only in the sides and back for older children. The short are the same difficulty level as the Music Class Skirt, but this pattern is for boys and girls.

Nature Walk Knit Pants: This simple pattern will help you to conquer any fears of sewing with knits, and you’ll be shocked at how easily and quickly the pants come together.

Ruffled Halter: Learn clever construction techniques to assemble this cute little top with easy raw-edge ruffles.

Novice
You’re able to sew from a pattern, and you’re eager to learn basic garment construction techniques. Our patterns rated one scissors in difficulty are designed for sewers at this level.

Bedtime Story Pajamas: This pajama set features simple elastic-waist pants and a bias bound kimono top. You’ll gain experience cutting out and assembling pants and a top without needing to worry about more detailed elements like buttonholes. The sleeves are fantastically simple to assemble, and you might try combining unusual fabrics for the bias trim and ties.

Sandbox Pants: This pattern allows you to create a great looking pair of pants with some interesting details that are fully within the reach of a new garment sewer. This project will teach you how to make simple pockets and will give you practice making buttonholes. The pants have a simple combination elastic/drawstring waistband which is slightly more challenging than the one on the Bedtime Story Pajamas.

Sailboat Top, Skirt, and Pants: This pattern provides a simple pair of cropped pants, a skirt, and a top that can all be made by someone without a lot of sewing experience. The details of the finished garments (decorative topstitching, buttons and button holes on the flat-front skirt and pants) provide a high satisfaction quotient for the novice sewer. You’ll learn to set in an easy sleeve and will be amazed at how simple it is to construct the pants and skirt—with no zippers!

Advanced Beginner
Tea Party Sundress and Playsuit: This is also a one scissors pattern, but it is slightly more challenging than our other one scissors patterns. Using this pattern will teach you how to make a curved seam and how to use flat piping. The sundress will introduce you to our innovative hem facing, which is ideal for finishing flared skirt hems.

Nature Walk Pullover: This pattern for a simple layering piece will introduce you to some simple details that look professional when finished: pockets, sleeves, and a collar. You’ll be thrilled with the results, and you can have fun combining fabrics for different results.

Hopscotch Skirt, Knit Top + Dress: Whether you want to improve your knit sewing skills with the top or dress or try some easy dressmaking details with the woven skirt, this pattern will expand your repertoire gently. The knit top/dress has easy gathers in the front yoke seam, a self neckband, and a simple set-in sleeve. The skirt includes a fun and manageable pleated pocket, front button placket, and a simple elastic back waistband.

Intermediate
You no longer consider yourself a beginning sewer. You’re comfortable with your machine and with following a pattern. You’ve made a few garments, and you’re pleased with the results you’ve achieved. Our two scissors patterns are perfect for this level. They are a little bit more involved and challenging to sew because they introduce interesting new construction techniques, but they provide great results for the extra effort.

Ice Cream Dress: This unique little pattern will show you how to finish the inside of the dress to look almost as nice as the outside! The easy button loop means no buttonholes or other closures, and you’ll get a chance to practice pivoting to create the little V-shape notches at the front neckline and pockets of View A.

Sunday Brunch Jacket and Skirt: This tailored, unlined jacket will get you comfortable with sewing sleeves, gathers, and collars. As a result, it provides a slightly greater challenge—but also several opportunities to pick up new skills. The unlined jacket also gives the opportunity to practice bias binding, if you should choose to finish the interior seams this way.

2+2 Top and Skirt: This pattern features a unique placket and gathering treatment on the front of the blouse, bias binding at the neckline, and a button placket at back. The simple pleated skirt features a side placket. This pattern offers opportunity to develop your construction and technique skills while working on these features. Chances are that you’ll surprise yourself with your new sewing abilities once you’ve completed the outfit.

Advanced Intermediate
When you’re ready to invest a little more time and take on a greater challenge, our three scissors patterns are ready for you. They feature full dress making details and, consequently, require a greater time investment to complete. But the outcomes are totally achievable (thanks to our detailed instructions) for an intermediate sewer looking for a new challenge.

Music Class Blouse: Try your hand at some simple pintucks in this blouse pattern. The one-piece collar and short sleeve look terrific despite being quite easy to sew. Once you’ve gained a little confidence, try the long sleeve version of the blouse with a placket at the cuff.

Sketchbook Shirt: Like the Music Class Blouse, this pattern looks impressive while actually being very manageable. The one-piece collar looks much more difficult than it actually is. Using this pattern, you will sew a button placket, and you can choose the short sleeves for an easier version or the long sleeves with placket at the cuffs when you’re ready.

Birthday Party Dress: You’ll gain experience sewing pleats, and you will use using accurate stitching to create the facing. You will experience a new and unique placket construction when you sew from this pattern.

Jump Rope Dress: This pattern includes lots of little dressmaking details that will make you feel like a professional when you see the results! You’ll use accurate stitching to make a partial placket and a sweet little collar. The you can choose between the gathered dropped-waist skirt with belt and belt loops or the simpler A-line version of the dress.

School Photo Dress: This unique dress includes a kangaroo pocket at the front, an invisible zipper, and a lining. The kangaroo pocket requires stitching precisely to several points, which will allow you to practice accuracy in stitching. You’ll be pleased at how easy it is to insert an invisible zipper, and the lining finishes everything nicely. This pattern requires a little more time than some of our other patterns, but the extra effort pays off beautifully.

School Days Jacket and Coat: Using this pattern will allow you to create a fully lined jacket or coat. You can even opt to make a removable, quilted lining. You’ll get experience sewing with laminates or wool. Sewing from this pattern is more time consuming than most of our others, but it will return excellent results for the investment. You’ll be amazed that you made it yourself!

Everyone is excited about knits right now. I must admit, I didn’t have much interest in sewing knits when Moda first approached me with the idea of adding interlock to the City Weekend fabric collection. But when the sample fabric arrived, I realized what a wonderful opportunity I had been given. The fabric quality is simply amazing–unlike any knit I’ve ever used before. It’s substantial and stable, not spongy and fuzzy or thin and whimpy like so many knit fabrics.

Once I started using this interlock in the studio, I quickly remembered how easy and fun it is to sew with knits. I’ve been converted, and I’ve put together some tips and hints to show you how easy it is.

Getting Started

As with any fabric, wash and dry your fabric before you start cutting. Knits tend to shrink more than woven fabrics. The City Weekend interlock shrinks about 8% (which is substantially less than the 15% or more seen in many knit qualities), but you don’t want your beautiful project to get 8% shorter the first time you wash it, do you?

Use all-purpose thread and, preferably, a ballpoint needle. Also note that, whether you’re sewing on a standard sewing machine or a serger (see the guidelines below for sewing on a machine vs. a serger), be careful not to stretch the fabric as you sew. Just feed it through the machine evenly for a nice seam. Interlock stretches on the cross grain and doesn’t “recover” as quickly as jersey knits. If you stretch as you sew, your finished garment can end up wider than you intended. Interlock doesn’t stretch much on the vertical grain, so pay attention to the direction of the stretch when you cut your fabric so you can take advantage of it.

Because the seam allowances for knit patterns are small (seam allowances for Oliver + S patterns are 1/2″, but for sewing patterns using knits we have reduced the seam allowances to 1/4″ to reduce bulk and to work nicely with a serger), mark notches with chalk, a fabric marker, pins, or by cutting them to extend outside the cut edge instead of cutting into the edge of the cut fabric. Here is an example of the notched edge of a knit:

Using a Standard Sewing Machine

Sew all seams with a stretch stitch (some machines have special stitches specifically designed for sewing knits) or with a narrow, shortened zigzag stitch, about 1/16″ wide by 16 stitches long (that is, eight zigs and eight zags to the inch).

While you can leave the seam allowances unfinished, I prefer to finish them together, stitching over the raw edges with a regular zigzag stitch.

Using a Serger

A serger will stitch, trim the seam allowances, and finish the seam allowances all at once. A three- or four-thread overlock stitch is suitable for most purposes. If you’re unsure of the fit, baste the seams first to check before stitching. Be sure to guide the fabric so only the 1/4” seam allowance is used as you stitch. Press seam allowances to one side unless otherwise instructed.

That’s not too difficult, is it?

Several people have asked about the books we presented during last Saturday’s Crafternoon at the New York Public Library. Jessica Pigza, our wonderful sewing librarian who organized the event, has posted a summary with catalog links to many of the books on her blog. I hope you’ll have a chance to look at some of these materials–we enjoyed seeing the books and images that inspire each other and each managed to learn something new in the process.

This is a cover from the July 1928 issue of Amateur Golfer magazine. Who knew golfing could be so inspirational!

For me, the hardest and most time consuming part of drafting a new pattern is writing the instructions.

Our patterns feature more sophisticated design elements (and, therefore, include more fine dressmaking details) than other children’s patterns on the market. This means that the construction techniques need to be innovative and the instructions need to be especially clear, thorough, and well illustrated.

Before starting Oliver + S, I taught regular sewing classes here in New York. That experience gave me insight into where people struggle at each stage in their development as seamstresses. When I write the instructions for our patterns, I always think of my former students. I ask myself if they would be able to accomplish something by following the instructions I’ve drafted. If the answer is “no,” I rewrite a step.

It makes my day when I hear someone say that sewing with an Oliver + S pattern feels like taking a sewing class. I’ve always considered teaching to be a core part of what Oliver + S is about. (We make great patterns, but we also help make good home sewers even better.) These days I don’t get to do as much direct instruction as I used to, but I try to make our patterns clear enough that they can be used as self-teaching tools for the people who sew from them.

All of this is a long way of getting around to the purpose of this blog post. Now that we have a critical mass of patterns, with styles at many difficulty levels, I’m able to do something with the line that I haven’t been able to do before. I can offer you a complete syllabus for learning to sew (or improving from your current level) with Oliver + S patterns.

Absolute Beginner
You know the basics of how to operate your sewing machine, but you’ve never sewn a garment. Here’s your place to start.

Lazy Days Skirt: This free downloadable design will help you get comfortable with your machine and will allow you to demonstrate to yourself that, yes, you can sew a garment. This very easy tutorial doesn’t involve an actual sewing pattern and is a perfect place to start for absolute beginners. It also involves a minimum of supplies. You’ll learn to make a simple elasticized waistband and a very easy ribbon hem that gives the skirt its finished appearance. This skirt doesn’t even require you to finish your seam allowances, so it’s fast and simple to make.

Popover Sundress: Ready to sew from a pattern? This free download for a simple sundress provides a good introduction to sewing from a pattern. It also teaches you how to apply bias binding, which is frequently used in sewing projects. You can also have fun with combining different fabrics and adding a variety of trims to this dress.

Novice
You’re able to sew from a pattern, and you’re eager to learn basic garment construction techniques. Our patterns rated one scissors in difficulty are designed for sewers at this level.

Bedtime Story Pajamas: Our easiest pattern, this pajama set features simple elastic-waist pants and a bias bound kimono top. You’ll gain experience cutting out and assembling pants and a top without needing to worry about more detailed elements like buttonholes. The sleeves are fantastically simple to assemble, and you might try combining unusual fabrics for the bias trim and ties.

Sandbox Pants: This pattern allows you to create a great looking pair of pants with some interesting details that are fully within the reach of a new garment sewer. This project will teach you how to make simple pockets and will give you practice making buttonholes. The pants have a simple combination elastic/drawstring waistband which is slightly more challenging than the one on the Bedtime Story Pajamas.

Sailboat Top, Skirt, and Pants: This pattern provides a simple pair of cropped pants, a skirt, and a top that can all be made by someone without a lot of sewing experience. The details of the finished garments (decorative topstitching, buttons and button holes on the flat-front skirt and pants) provide a high satisfaction quotient for the novice sewer. You’ll learn to set in an easy sleeve and will be amazed at how simple it is to construct the pants and skirt—with no zippers!

Advanced Beginner
Tea Party Sundress and Playsuit: This is also a one scissors pattern, but it is slightly more challenging than our other one scissors patterns. Using this pattern will teach you how to make a curved seam and how to use flat piping. The sundress will introduce you to our innovative hem facing, which is ideal for finishing flared skirt hems.

Intermediate
You no longer consider yourself a beginning sewer. You’re comfortable with your machine and with following a pattern. You’ve made a few garments, and you’re pleased with the results you’ve achieved. Our two scissors patterns are perfect for this level. They are a little bit more involved and challenging to sew because they introduce interesting new construction techniques, but they provide great results for the extra effort.

Bubble Dress: This fully lined dress includes a number of interesting details that will help you build your skills. The sleeve is part of the bodice on this pattern, so you can concentrate on the unique back placket, the scalloped side seams, and the hidden elastic at the hemline.

Sunday Brunch Jacket and Skirt: This tailored, unlined jacket will get you comfortable with sewing sleeves, gathers, and collars. As a result, it provides a slightly greater challenge—but also several opportunities to pick up new skills. The unlined jacket also gives the opportunity to practice bias binding, if you should choose to finish the interior seams this way.

2+2 Top and Skirt: This pattern features a unique placket and gathering treatment on the front of the blouse, bias binding at the neckline, and a button placket at back. The simple pleated skirt features a side placket. This pattern offers opportunity to develop your construction and technique skills while working on these features. Chances are that you’ll surprise yourself with your new sewing abilities once you’ve completed the outfit.

Advanced Intermediate
When you’re ready to invest a little more time and take on a greater challenge, our three scissors patterns are ready for you. They feature full dress
making details and, consequently, require a greater time investment to complete. But the outcomes are totally achievable (thanks to our detailed instructions) for an intermediate sewer looking for a new challenge.

Birthday Party Dress: You’ll gain experience sewing pleats, and you will use using accurate stitching to create the facing. You will experience a new and unique placket construction when you sew from this pattern.

Jump Rope Dress: This pattern features a straightforward construction technique that teaches you how to sew a sophisticated front placket. You’ll also get experience with sewing a collar. The detailed pockets and more tailored sleeves of this pattern result in a very professional final garment.

School Days Jacket and Coat: This is our “no holds barred” pattern for those of you who want a real sewing workout! Using this pattern will allow you to create a fully lined jacket or coat. You can even opt to make a removable, quilted lining. You’ll get experience sewing with laminates or wool. Sewing from this pattern is more time consuming than most of our others, but it will return excellent results for the investment. You’ll be amazed that you made it yourself!