I recently gave myself the same type of homework and spent the past three full days filling a sketchbook with page upon page of ideas for future sewing patterns. Hopefully when I look back at the designs I’ll find some useful ideas, now that the fall patterns are at the printer and it’s time to start work on the spring collection.

While I was in the studio, looking for some inspiration, I also came across some other sketches and thought you might enjoy seeing them. These are the spring sewing patterns, not in their first incarnation as preliminary ideas but as part of the package I send to Dan, our illustrator, each season, so he can paint the paper doll clothing. Among the many ways that I communicate with Dan are sketches I make showing him what the clothes should look like on the dolls. I also send photographs, fabric and color swatches, and lengthy notes about each garment. But the sketches are the most useful part of the package, I think. I can show exactly what the silhouette is: how long a skirt should be, how closely (or loosely) a garment should fit, where the pockets are placed and how the collar sits. Here is the Ice Cream Dress (sorry for the smudges; I generally work with pencil on vellum so I can draw directly on top of the a paper doll to get the proportions right.):

I get to pretend that I’m an illustrator when I do this, except that I use a lot of words to show what I mean. Dan doesn’t have that luxury. (On the other hand, he’s a professional illustrator; I merely need to communicate an idea, thank goodness.)

Here are the other spring patterns, just for the fun of it:

So I spell out (literally) a lot of information here, but there is one area in which I let Dan have complete control: I always suggest a few props to coordinate with the name of each pattern, and Dan chooses exactly which prop to draw and how to show it. He’s never disappointed me. My favorite prop is still the bunny slippers. After he finished the painting, I found an exact match for them and bought them as a prop for Quilt Market.

Ok, back to my sketches.

View each style’s pattern page to place your order:

• Music Class Blouse and Skirt
• Sketchbook Shirt and Shorts
• Ice Cream Dress

Happy sewing!

The shorts pattern included with the Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts has a simple elastic waistband that can also be sewn to look like a flat waistband in the front. The mock fly looks like a more challenging (and time-consuming) zipper fly but is actually very simple to stitch. And the pleats give it an easy fit while also allowing you to press a crease into the leg for a dressy look.

Boys will like the front pockets (you’ll like them too because they’re easy to make), and the below-the-knee length is appropriate for casual or dress occasions in warmer weather.

This pattern is great for a beginners and would be rated one scissor if it were packaged by itself. So, like with the Music Class Blouse + Skirt, you could treat this pattern as a sewing class. Start with the shorts, move up to the short-sleeved shirt, and finish with the long-sleeved shirt to really develop your skills and sewing confidence.

For the shorts we recommend light- to medium-weight woven fabrics like denim, canvas, chambray, corduroy, twill, and linen.

Last fall I asked a question on the Oliver + S Discussion Forums: What do you want to sew next?

We received lots of great feedback, and I was especially interested to see how many of you wanted to sew a classic boy’s shirt. You’re a brave bunch! Either that or you knew that I wouldn’t give you a pattern that was too difficult to finish. So thank you for the nudge you gave me toward developing this pattern.

Personally, I’ve never liked to sew shirts because the collar and band are usually very tricky to assemble. Traditional sewing techniques involve rolling the collar inside a tiny collar band, which is difficult enough with adult-sized clothing but which is virtually impossible with smaller children’s sizes. So for a little while there I decided that our discussion forum respondents were either gluttons for punishment or simply crazy.

Then I had an idea. Why not incorporate the same one-piece collar construction we’ve used in the Jump Rope Dress and the new Music Class Blouse and translate it into a boy’s shirt collar? It would eliminate the tricky collar stand assembly but still permit the collar to roll and wear the way a traditional shirt collar should.

And it worked! I’m very pleased with how much easier it is to sew this collar without compromising the finished appearance of the classic (but much more difficult) collar sewing technique. This collar can be worn open for a casual look or buttoned all the way up for a dressy or more formal appearance.  And you won’t be cursing at me while you sew it.

The easy shirt-tail hem can be worn loose or tucked in, and you have the choice of a simple short sleeve or a more challenging (but not overwhelming) long sleeve with placket and cuff. I’m quite pleased with the cuff too. It’s much easier to sew than many cuff construction techniques, without the frustration level I’ve always come to expect from sleeve cuffs.

View A includes that nifty shirt collar I mentioned above, the long sleeve with placket and cuff, and a chest pocket. We’ve sewn our sample from a printed stripe that gives a more casual appearance appropriate for school or play. But you can choose to use a solid or a classic shirting fabric with a subtle stripe or check to make a dressier version that’s just right for dressy occasions.

View B gives you the flexibility for doing some other variations on the shirt. Like the Music Class Blouse, View B of this pattern includes a band collar as well as short sleeve. Mix and match the collar, sleeve, and pocket options to create a variety of styles for all sorts of occasions–both formal and casual. Let your imagination go with this one.

For this shirt pattern, which is rated as two of four scissors in difficulty, we suggest light- to medium-weight woven fabrics like quilting cotton, broadcloth, lawn, shirting, poplin, fine-wale corduroy, and linen.

Next, I’ll show you the shorts that are also included in the pattern.

• Ice Cream Dress
• Music Class Blouse + Skirt
• Sketchbook Shirt + Shorts

Happy fabric shopping!

This season we’re releasing three new patterns: a cute little blouse and skirt outfit, a classic shirt and shorts outfit for boys, and a stylish smock-style dress.

As usual with our patterns, each of the styles has been designed to be very versatile, and they all include many different options. And, in response to your requests, we have expanded our sizing up to 12 starting this season.

So, without further ado, here’s a preview of the line.

The Music Class Blouse and Skirt is a sweet, sophisticated outfit that’s as appropriate for toddlers as it is for tweens. The skirt features an unusual side pocket and a pleated hem detail. The blouse can be made with either short or long sleeves and with a traditional blouse collar or a band collar.

The Sketchbook Shirt and Shorts pattern provides a classic version of a child’s shirt with a button-front placket and shirt-tail hem. Like the Music Class blouse, this shirt can also be made with long or short sleeves and either a traditional or a band collar. The simple knee-length shorts have an elasticized waist and a mock fly and are very easy to sew.

The Ice Cream Dress features an interesting one-piece yoke  with a V-notch at the front and a button loop closure at the back neck. It can be made in two different styles or as a blouse to pair with your favorite skirt or shorts during summer months.

The patterns will be available in stores worldwide and on our website starting on April 5. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter to be notified when the patterns begin shipping. Wholesale customers can place pre-orders now by downloading the form from our Wholesale page.

Over the next three weeks we’ll be publishing more detailed posts here that highlight all the options included in each pattern. Check back frequently to see what we have in store for you this spring.