A flat-felled seam is accomplished by sewing two lines of stitching at the seam while simultaneously enclosing the raw edges of the fabric.  This seam finish not only prevents unraveling or fraying, but makes the seam very strong.  It also gives the finished garment a clean finish on this inside.

A flat-felled seam is commonly found on denim jeans and men’s dress shirts as well as on reversible garments.  I’ve even seen this feature instructed in vintage patterns for boy’s and men’s pajamas.  It adds one more touch of professionalism to a hand-made garment.

To begin, stitch the seam with the fabric pieces wrong sides together.

You can determine how wide you want your flat-felled seam to be by how much you trim your seam allowances.  Begin by trimming only one side to the desired width of the finished seam allowances.

Trim the second seam allowances to twice the width of the first. For this example, I stitched a 1/2″ seam and then trimmed the first seam allowance to 1/4″, which means I didn’t need to trim the second seam allowance since it was already twice the width of the first.

Fold and press the wider seam allowance around the shorter seam allowance so the raw edge of the second (wider) seam allowance meets the first seam line.  Then stitch along the folded edge of the second seam allowance.  This encloses the raw edge, and with the second row of stitching creates a very strong seam.

To make my stitching rows evenly spaced, I used a 1/4-inch foot.  The black guide on the right followed the first stitching line while the inside edge of the little toe was a guide for sewing the second stitching line.

Another useful tool is the Felling Foot, because it folds, presses, and stitches the first row of stitches all in one pass.

Using this attachment, while still accommodating a 1/2-inch seam allowance, I trimmed 1/8 inch from each of the seam allowances prior to stitching so that the finished seam would finish with the correct seam allowance according to the pattern.

To begin, space the top seam allowance 1/8 inch to the left of the bottom seam allowance as shown in the photo above.  Finger press and fold the start of the seam so that you can stitch 2-3 stitches to secure the folds in place.  With the needle still in position, maneuver the bottom seam allowance into the Felling Foot so that it curves up and around. Sewing slowly, carefully begin stitching to allow the bottom seam allowance to fold over the top seam allowance so that the folds can be stitched in place for the first stitching line.

Simultaneously, the attachment is folding, pressing and allowing the needle to stitch the initial seam enclosed.

Press the enclosed seam so that you can make the final pass with the attachment.

Using the Feller attachment for the second pass, slip the stitched fold up into the attachment with the right toe set up against the outside of the first row of stitches. Allow the fold to carefully pass under the foot while stitching it in place for the finished Flat-Felled Seam.

The 4mm Feller Attachment makes a dainty, 1/8″ narrow flat-felled seam.

You don’t need a serger to make a lettuce hem, however. Here are some easy instructions for making a hem using an ordinary sewing machine. A machine-stitched lettuce hem requires one additional step that isn’t necessary with a serged hem, but the result is very similar.

First, mark the desired length of your hem and trim the fabric to be approximately 1″ longer than the finished length. Fold the excess fabric to the wrong side, press the fold, and pin the fabric in a few places to hold it temporarily.

Set your sewing machine to a short zigzag stitch. If you have a satin stitch setting, this works great. Otherwise, just set your zigzag stitch so the stitches will be very close together and create a smooth stitch. The stitches also should be at least 1/8″ wide so you have enough room to stitch over the folded edge of the fabric.

Once you’ve got everything set up, test a few knit scraps to check the settings and get comfortable with this stitch. You’ll need to stretch the hem as you stitch. The more you stretch, the wavier the edge. Keep the fabric stretched as evenly as possible while you work. It’s easiest to do this with a tube shape rather than a straight piece of fabric, since a tube gives you something to hold in front and behind the needle as you’re working. (Sleeves and pant legs work perfectly.)

As you stretch the fabric, stitch over the folded edge of the hem so the needle falls off the fabric on the right side of the stitch and stitches the fabric on the left side. Here is the stitched hem from the wrong side of the fabric.

Once you’ve finished stitching, turn to the wrong side of the hem, and trim the excess fabric. I’ve found that the easiest way to trim is to stretch the hem until it is straight, and trim as closely as you can to the stitches while holding the stretched fabric. (This is the step that isn’t required if you use a serger, since the serger trims the excess fabric as it folds and stitches the hem.)

You’ll notice, initially, that the hem is stretched and distorted. It won’t look very lettuce-y at first, but if you give it a few minutes to recover, you’ll see that, as the knit returns to its original shape, the hem will curl up to reveal a sweet little lettuce-y edge.

Easy, yes? We used the lettuce hem on the Hopscotch Dress and Nature Walk Pants pajama combination for S. How will you use it?

Bias Binding is a strip of material cut on the bias for extra stretch and often doubled.  It is used for binding hems, interfacings, or for edge decoration and is very useful for many sewing projects.  It adds a touch of embellishment to set your garment or project apart for a more professional appearance.  You can purchase ready-made bias or make your own.

Bias-making tools are helpful and efficient, but a good steam iron is the necessary tool.  I personally prefer to make my own bias binding because I can customize it to my project, but some of the old-fashioned vintage unused packages can be quite fun to put to use, too.  The focus of this tutorial will be set around making your own bias.

For a 1/4″-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1″-wide bias strips, for a 3/8″-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1 1/2″-wide bias strips, and for 1/2″-wide finished binding, you’ll need 2″-wide bias strips.  The following illustrations will show how you can enclose the raw edges of your seam allowances using the regular presser foot on your sewing machine or by way of an old Singer Attachment.

I prefer a 1/4″ wide finished binding, so my illustrations will reflect using 1″-wide bias strips.

Before binding, stitch your seam allowances as directed in your pattern instructions. With Oliver + S patterns, this is a 1/2″ seam allowance.  To follow with binding, trim the seam allowances to about 1/4″ [editor's note: by trimming your seam allowances to 1/4" the binding will finish at the seamline. To keep the bias binding further from the seamline so the bias doesn't add bulk, leave the seam allowances untrimmed].  Fold and press one long edge of the bias strip to the wrong side by 1/4″.  Pin the opposite long edge of the strip to the seam allowances with the right side of the bias strip facing the seam allowances and the raw edges aligned. Stitch the layers with a 1/4″ seam.

Press one long edge of the bias strip to the wrong side by 1/4".

Trimming your seam allowances slightly will help to ensure that your previous stitching lines are covered within the bias as it is folded over and stitched.Wrap the bias strip around the seam allowances so the folded edge just covers the first row of stitching. I like to re-press at this point so that my bias lies flat while I stitch it in place.  Then stitch the bias in place along its folded edge.

Stitching the bias-binding in place.

Finished bound seam.

This method is particularly useful for finishing seams on heavier fabrics.  (Be sure to choose a very lightweight cotton such as lawn or batiste so as not to add any unnecessary bulk at the seam allowances.)  Using a contrasting fabric adds that last finished touch to the inside of a garment, such as this Sunday Brunch Jacket I made for my daughter.

The following illustrations are shown using an old Singer Binder Attachment and 15/16″ wide bias strips.  (A little bit of trivia:  remember, the tutorial illustrating the Singer Hand-Crank Pinker?  Using a straight-edge disk, the cutting guide was specifically designed for 15/16″ maximum width cut for this very purpose!)

A Singer Binder was included as a standard basic attachment with most vintage Singer Sewing Machines but are still useful for today.  If you want to avoid the extra steps of pressing, this attachment will aid in stitching, folding, and binding the raw edges all at one time.  Granted, it does take a bit of practice to get the feel and direction to hold the bias strips correctly, but there is something fun about using tools from days gone by.

Binding a seam using a Singer Binder Attachment.

The engineering of this attachment basically allows only for traditional cotton quilting wovens to be used, but it is particularly helpful for quickly binding seams or binding the edge of a single layer piece of fabric (e.g., aprons, ties or sashes, bibs, collars, etc.) all in one pass. I only trimmed about 1/8″ from the seam allowance before applying the binding with the Singer Attachment, being extra cautious not to sew into the seam allowance itself.  You will find more ideas and samples at April1930s.com.

Bias is fed, folded, stitched and bound in place.

The bias strip is guided through the attachment while simultaneously being folded and stitched in place as it encloses the raw edge of the seam allowances. You can use this attachment for a variety of bias-width cuts, but the maximum width allowed through the binder is 15/16″.

Inside seam showing a bound seam allowance using the Singer Binder-Attachment.

When you are finished, be sure to press the seam allowance in the proper direction as directed in your pattern instructions.

Press the seam allowance in the proper direction for a professional finish.

Start with a thread at least three times the length of the finished loop, plus extra for working. Begin by anchoring your thread in the garment at the location where you want the loop to start.

Take a small stitch next to the anchored thread, and don’t pull the resulting loop all the way closed.

Drop the needle and the end of the thread, and reach through the loop to pull the center of the extending thread through the loop, forming a new loop in the process. Don’t pull the end of the thread through the loop because the goal is to form a second loop.

Tighten the first loop, and proceed in the same manner, forming new loops.

Once the thread chain has reached the desired length, finish by pulling the needle and thread through the final loop to end it.

Finish by taking a stitch into the garment to anchor the end of the loop. Knot the end of the thread, and you’re finished!

If you’re using this technique to make a button loop for the School Photo Dress (View A), make the loop just inside the fold line for the collar (closer to the neck seam than the outside edge of the collar). Once the button and loop are fastened, the rest of the collar will fold over to partially cover them.

Regardless of the tool you choose, it is invaluable to be able to pink a seam or fabric edge quickly.

Pinked seams using pinking shears

After stitching the seam, simply trim the seam allowance with pinking shears or with a pinking tool and press the seam open.  How much fabric to trim will vary depending on your pattern seam allowance.  I prefer to leave about 1/4″ – 3/8″ remaining of seam allowance to be pressed open.  Pinked seams still fray somewhat resulting in a less professionally-looking finish, but pinking is advantageous in that it is quick and easy.

Pinked seams using a Singer Hand Crank Pinker. This is my favorite pinking tool; it's fast, easy, fun and doesn't tire the hands!

If the fabric unravels easily, then an extra step of straight-stitching just below the pinked edge will add greater stability to the seam allowance and prevent further unraveling as discussed in the straight stitch seam finish.

Sometimes I will pink all raw fabric edges immediately following a fabric purchase.  This prevents excessive unraveling or fraying of the fabric when I am pre-washing and shrinking it to prepare for pattern cut-out.  Granted, these are extra steps to your sewing project, but the finished result will preserve the garment seam for longer lasting wear.

Finishing seams provides stability to the seam and overall garment, prevents unraveling, while also making a hand-made garment look professional. There are many options available which can vary depending on the fabric choice, machine availability or personal sewing preference. Some of the techniques are basic while others are a work of art, designed to make the inside of the garment look just as admirable as the outside.

The first seam finish we will discuss is one that can be finished with just your sewing machine using a straight stitch.

Straight stitching line halfway between cut edge and seam itself

To finish the seam allowance, simply run a straight stitching line inside the seam allowance edge approximately half way between the cut edge and the seam itself.  This utilitarian finish will act similarly to stay-stitching.  While it can still fray along the cut edges, the stitches will act as a barrier preventing the seam from fraying any further than the stitching line.  If you want to take the initiative one step further for aesthetics, fold and press the seam allowance edge to the wrong side, to meet the seam itself, enclosing the raw edge – then stitch your straight-stitching line.  This technique is fine for lightweight wovens, but use caution for seams with bulk, as it may not be appropriate for some fabrics or projects.

Straight stitching line to enclose the raw edge

The raw edge is folded, pressed and stitched for enclosure

Enclosed straight-stitch seam finish on the left and simple straight-stitch seam finish on the right

Finished seam

Pressing the seams open eliminates bulk and allows the outside of the garment seam to lay flat.  Most sewing patterns instruct for seam allowances to be pressed open, so these straight-stitching seam finish techniques would be applicable.

April’s business, April 1930′s, centers on vintage Singer Featherweight machines and their attachments. Those of you who own older sewing machines will be especially interested in the attachment details she will be including in her posts, since many older machines don’t include these special stitches. April also does a lot of our sample sewing and pattern testing, and we frequently rely on her expertise.

April’s first series of posts, a number of short tutorials which will start running tomorrow, focus on seam finishing techniques. We hope you’ll enjoy and learn from April’s work.

French seams are easiest and most appropriate to use along straight edges. They aren’t generally appropriate for curved seams like an armhole, since curves will cause the fabric to pucker when finished. However, with a gentle curve like the side underarm portion of the Ice Cream Dress (shown below), I’ll show you a tip that will help you to stitch a French seam without puckering.

A French seam is made by stitching the seam twice—first stitching with the fabric’s wrong sides together, and then stitching a second time with the fabric folded over the seam allowances so the right sides are together. This second row of stitches encases the seam allowances inside the seam. You’ll find full instructions below. Note that these measurements are appropriate for a 1/2″ seam allowance. You’ll need to adjust the measurements if your pattern calls for seam allowances of a different size.

1. Pin the edges to be sewn, with wrong sides together, and stitch them with a 1/4″ seam, backstitching at the beginning and end of the seam to secure the stitches.

2. Press the seam allowances open and trim them to 1/8″.

Then fold the fabric over the seam allowances, so the right sides are facing and the seam allowances are sandwiched between the two layers. Press the fabric at the fold (the first seam) to flatten it and get a nice crease, and then pin the two layers together near the fold.

HINT: If you’re sewing a slightly curved seam, you can prepare the fabric by straightening and stretching the first seam at the curve as you press it. By stretching the seam slightly, it won’t pucker and tug when the seam is finished.

3. Stitch the pinned seam again, this time 1/4″ from the folded and pinned edge. This second seam neatly encases the seam allowances’ raw edges. Press the seam flat first, and then press them to one side.

Fairly simple to do, right?

Chances are you’ve faced a similar issue. You’re ready to sew for your child (or yourself), but the body that will be wearing the garment doesn’t have the same measurements as the sizing chart on the pattern envelope.

Not to worry. It’s easy to make pattern adjustments to accommodate these differences. I’ve put together a little tutorial to show you how.

Picking the correct splicing spot

First, assemble all the pieces you’ll be lengthening or shortening. It’s important to make the same changes to all the matching pieces, so be sure you’ve got the pieces for the front and the back of the garment.

In general, the best location for lengthening or shortening a dress or shirt is halfway between the bottom of the armhole and the hem. For pants or a skirt, the best spot is halfway between the rise/crotch and the hem.

Here are a few illustrations showing (with a horizontal line) the recommended lengthen/shorten locations for some of our patterns.

Sailboat Top, sleeve: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

Sandbox Pants: lengthen halfway between the rise/crotch and the hem

Tea Party Sundress: lengthen skirt halfway between top edge and hem

Sailboat Top: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

Birthday Party Dress: lengthen halfway between underarm and hem

By adding or subtracting length in the middle of the piece, you won’t affect the hem or the general silhouette as much as you would if you added to the bottom of the piece. However, use your best judgment here. Depending on the style, you might want to pick a slightly different place to do your splicing.

I prefer to lengthen or shorten at a notch (when a notch is available) so that I can be sure to position matching or opposing pieces at the same location. For example, on the Tea Party Sundress, I lengthened the lower of the double notches. Don’t forget to do this for all the pieces involved: front and back!

When you’ve selected the spot at which you’ll make your splice, draw a line on the pattern piece at the spot. The line should be perpendicular to the grain (or fold) line at the point where you want to lengthen or shorten the piece. Remember: draw this line at the same position on all the pattern pieces you’ll be changing.

Then, starting with one piece, cut the pattern along your line to divide it into two separate pieces.

To lengthen

To add length to a pattern piece, tape a strip of paper under one of the two pieces, and extend the grain line (or fold line) across the strip of paper as in the illustration below.

Draw a line parallel to the cut edge of the pattern piece, marking the amount of length you want to add. For S, I usually add between one and two inches, but it’s a good idea to refer to the Finished Garment Measurement chart on the back of the pattern envelope so you know how long the original pattern will be when it is finished. This will help you to decide how much to add or subtract from the piece.

Tape the other part of the pattern to the line you drew. Be sure to match the extended grain line, even if the sides of the pattern don’t appear to match.

Finally, draw the edges of the pattern piece onto the strip of paper you inserted. You’ll need to draw either a straight line or a curve. If the edge is straight, simply connect the two sides of the original pattern piece with a line. If the edge is curved, you may need to blend the edge, subtracting a bit from one line and adding to the other. Use your eye to extend the curve so it looks blended with the rest of the pattern edge as in this illustration.

To shorten

To shorten a pattern, fold the pattern piece back on itself to remove the extra length and tape the pieces together, again maintaining the grain or fold line.

Redraw the sides, blending any curved lines to make a continuous curve just as you would with a lengthened piece.

Sandbox Pants: overlap at the cut line to shorten

Again, don’t forget to make the same adjustments to all the pattern pieces, both front and back. There’s nothing worse than forgetting to add length to part of the pattern.

Every so often, we get a question on how to construct the back placket on the Swingset Tunic. This element of the garment uses a unique and unusual construction technique that will be unfamiliar to almost anyone sewing from the pattern for the first time.

April’s tutorial walks you through these steps of the process very clearly with excellent, detailed photos. The tutorial will be a great resource for anyone sewing the tunic for the first time.

And check out April’s finished top. Lovely.