Over at the Lisette blog today I’m making shoelaces as stocking stuffers. Here is a pair I made using the Gingko Toss print from Cape Ann.

And speaking of Cape Ann, last week the Jolly Jabber (which is the Fat Quarter Shop blog) has a little interview with me about Cape Ann and a tiny preview of our next collection. Take a peek!

Note: today we continue our occasional series of seam finishing tutorials written by April Henry.

A flat-felled seam is accomplished by sewing two lines of stitching at the seam while simultaneously enclosing the raw edges of the fabric.  This seam finish not only prevents unraveling or fraying, but makes the seam very strong.  It also gives the finished garment a clean finish on this inside.

A flat-felled seam is commonly found on denim jeans and men’s dress shirts as well as on reversible garments.  I’ve even seen this feature instructed in vintage patterns for boy’s and men’s pajamas.  It adds one more touch of professionalism to a hand-made garment.

To begin, stitch the seam with the fabric pieces wrong sides together.

You can determine how wide you want your flat-felled seam to be by how much you trim your seam allowances.  Begin by trimming only one side to the desired width of the finished seam allowances.

Trim the second seam allowances to twice the width of the first. For this example, I stitched a 1/2″ seam and then trimmed the first seam allowance to 1/4″, which means I didn’t need to trim the second seam allowance since it was already twice the width of the first.

Fold and press the wider seam allowance around the shorter seam allowance so the raw edge of the second (wider) seam allowance meets the first seam line.  Then stitch along the folded edge of the second seam allowance.  This encloses the raw edge, and with the second row of stitching creates a very strong seam.

To make my stitching rows evenly spaced, I used a 1/4-inch foot.  The black guide on the right followed the first stitching line while the inside edge of the little toe was a guide for sewing the second stitching line.

Another useful tool is the Felling Foot, because it folds, presses, and stitches the first row of stitches all in one pass.

Using this attachment, while still accommodating a 1/2-inch seam allowance, I trimmed 1/8 inch from each of the seam allowances prior to stitching so that the finished seam would finish with the correct seam allowance according to the pattern.

To begin, space the top seam allowance 1/8 inch to the left of the bottom seam allowance as shown in the photo above.  Finger press and fold the start of the seam so that you can stitch 2-3 stitches to secure the folds in place.  With the needle still in position, maneuver the bottom seam allowance into the Felling Foot so that it curves up and around. Sewing slowly, carefully begin stitching to allow the bottom seam allowance to fold over the top seam allowance so that the folds can be stitched in place for the first stitching line.

Simultaneously, the attachment is folding, pressing and allowing the needle to stitch the initial seam enclosed.

Press the enclosed seam so that you can make the final pass with the attachment.

Using the Feller attachment for the second pass, slip the stitched fold up into the attachment with the right toe set up against the outside of the first row of stitches. Allow the fold to carefully pass under the foot while stitching it in place for the finished Flat-Felled Seam.

The 4mm Feller Attachment makes a dainty, 1/8″ narrow flat-felled seam.

I recently wrote a detailed guest post for the nice folks at Janome about using a serger to make a lettuce hem on knits. I used this technique and a Janome 1100D serger (which they’ve generously lent to the Oliver + S studio) to make the pair of pajamas I blogged about earlier this month. If you’re interested in how to make a lettuce hem using a serger, click through to Janome’s site for instructions.

You don’t need a serger to make a lettuce hem, however. Here are some easy instructions for making a hem using an ordinary sewing machine. A machine-stitched lettuce hem requires one additional step that isn’t necessary with a serged hem, but the result is very similar.

First, mark the desired length of your hem and trim the fabric to be approximately 1″ longer than the finished length. Fold the excess fabric to the wrong side, press the fold, and pin the fabric in a few places to hold it temporarily.

Set your sewing machine to a short zigzag stitch. If you have a satin stitch setting, this works great. Otherwise, just set your zigzag stitch so the stitches will be very close together and create a smooth stitch. The stitches also should be at least 1/8″ wide so you have enough room to stitch over the folded edge of the fabric.

Once you’ve got everything set up, test a few knit scraps to check the settings and get comfortable with this stitch. You’ll need to stretch the hem as you stitch. The more you stretch, the wavier the edge. Keep the fabric stretched as evenly as possible while you work. It’s easiest to do this with a tube shape rather than a straight piece of fabric, since a tube gives you something to hold in front and behind the needle as you’re working. (Sleeves and pant legs work perfectly.)

As you stretch the fabric, stitch over the folded edge of the hem so the needle falls off the fabric on the right side of the stitch and stitches the fabric on the left side. Here is the stitched hem from the wrong side of the fabric.

Once you’ve finished stitching, turn to the wrong side of the hem, and trim the excess fabric. I’ve found that the easiest way to trim is to stretch the hem until it is straight, and trim as closely as you can to the stitches while holding the stretched fabric. (This is the step that isn’t required if you use a serger, since the serger trims the excess fabric as it folds and stitches the hem.)

You’ll notice, initially, that the hem is stretched and distorted. It won’t look very lettuce-y at first, but if you give it a few minutes to recover, you’ll see that, as the knit returns to its original shape, the hem will curl up to reveal a sweet little lettuce-y edge.

Easy, yes? We used the lettuce hem on the Hopscotch Dress and Nature Walk Pants pajama combination for S. How will you use it?

Note: today we continue the series of seam finishing tutorials by April Henry that we started last summer.

Bias Binding is a strip of material cut on the bias for extra stretch and often doubled.  It is used for binding hems, interfacings, or for edge decoration and is very useful for many sewing projects.  It adds a touch of embellishment to set your garment or project apart for a more professional appearance.  You can purchase ready-made bias or make your own.

Bias-making tools are helpful and efficient, but a good steam iron is the necessary tool.  I personally prefer to make my own bias binding because I can customize it to my project, but some of the old-fashioned vintage unused packages can be quite fun to put to use, too.  The focus of this tutorial will be set around making your own bias.

For a 1/4″-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1″-wide bias strips, for a 3/8″-wide finished binding, you’ll need to start with 1 1/2″-wide bias strips, and for 1/2″-wide finished binding, you’ll need 2″-wide bias strips.  The following illustrations will show how you can enclose the raw edges of your seam allowances using the regular presser foot on your sewing machine or by way of an old Singer Attachment.

I prefer a 1/4″ wide finished binding, so my illustrations will reflect using 1″-wide bias strips.

Before binding, stitch your seam allowances as directed in your pattern instructions. With Oliver + S patterns, this is a 1/2″ seam allowance.  To follow with binding, trim the seam allowances to about 1/4″ [editor's note: by trimming your seam allowances to 1/4" the binding will finish at the seamline. To keep the bias binding further from the seamline so the bias doesn't add bulk, leave the seam allowances untrimmed].  Fold and press one long edge of the bias strip to the wrong side by 1/4″.  Pin the opposite long edge of the strip to the seam allowances with the right side of the bias strip facing the seam allowances and the raw edges aligned. Stitch the layers with a 1/4″ seam.

Press one long edge of the bias strip to the wrong side by 1/4".

Trimming your seam allowances slightly will help to ensure that your previous stitching lines are covered within the bias as it is folded over and stitched.Wrap the bias strip around the seam allowances so the folded edge just covers the first row of stitching. I like to re-press at this point so that my bias lies flat while I stitch it in place.  Then stitch the bias in place along its folded edge.

Stitching the bias-binding in place.

Finished bound seam.

This method is particularly useful for finishing seams on heavier fabrics.  (Be sure to choose a very lightweight cotton such as lawn or batiste so as not to add any unnecessary bulk at the seam allowances.)  Using a contrasting fabric adds that last finished touch to the inside of a garment, such as this Sunday Brunch Jacket I made for my daughter.

The following illustrations are shown using an old Singer Binder Attachment and 15/16″ wide bias strips.  (A little bit of trivia:  remember, the tutorial illustrating the Singer Hand-Crank Pinker?  Using a straight-edge disk, the cutting guide was specifically designed for 15/16″ maximum width cut for this very purpose!)

A Singer Binder was included as a standard basic attachment with most vintage Singer Sewing Machines but are still useful for today.  If you want to avoid the extra steps of pressing, this attachment will aid in stitching, folding, and binding the raw edges all at one time.  Granted, it does take a bit of practice to get the feel and direction to hold the bias strips correctly, but there is something fun about using tools from days gone by.

Binding a seam using a Singer Binder Attachment.

The engineering of this attachment basically allows only for traditional cotton quilting wovens to be used, but it is particularly helpful for quickly binding seams or binding the edge of a single layer piece of fabric (e.g., aprons, ties or sashes, bibs, collars, etc.) all in one pass. I only trimmed about 1/8″ from the seam allowance before applying the binding with the Singer Attachment, being extra cautious not to sew into the seam allowance itself.  You will find more ideas and samples at April1930s.com.

Bias is fed, folded, stitched and bound in place.

The bias strip is guided through the attachment while simultaneously being folded and stitched in place as it encloses the raw edge of the seam allowances. You can use this attachment for a variety of bias-width cuts, but the maximum width allowed through the binder is 15/16″.

Inside seam showing a bound seam allowance using the Singer Binder-Attachment.

When you are finished, be sure to press the seam allowance in the proper direction as directed in your pattern instructions.

Press the seam allowance in the proper direction for a professional finish.

A thread chain has lots of uses. It can be a delicate button loop, it can take the place of the metal loop in a hook-and-eye closure, it can be used as a French tack to attach a lining to a garment near the hem, and it can make a subtle belt loop on a dress. Thread loops are crocheted, but they can easily be made without a crochet hook. I’ll show you how.

Start with a thread at least three times the length of the finished loop, plus extra for working. Begin by anchoring your thread in the garment at the location where you want the loop to start.

Take a small stitch next to the anchored thread, and don’t pull the resulting loop all the way closed.

Drop the needle and the end of the thread, and reach through the loop to pull the center of the extending thread through the loop, forming a new loop in the process. Don’t pull the end of the thread through the loop because the goal is to form a second loop.

Tighten the first loop, and proceed in the same manner, forming new loops.

Once the thread chain has reached the desired length, finish by pulling the needle and thread through the final loop to end it.

Finish by taking a stitch into the garment to anchor the end of the loop. Knot the end of the thread, and you’re finished!

If you’re using this technique to make a button loop for the School Photo Dress (View A), make the loop just inside the fold line for the collar (closer to the neck seam than the outside edge of the collar). Once the button and loop are fastened, the rest of the collar will fold over to partially cover them.

Pinking is defined as a zigzag cut from a saw/scallop-toothed edge blade using pinking shears or a hand crank pinker.  A good pair of Pinking Shears or a hand crank pinker that mounts to a tabletop are handy tools for any sewing room.  To keep your pinking shears cutting sharp and even, use them for fabric and fabric only.  However, some hand crank pinkers allow you more freedom to use interchangeably on fabric, paper, leather, etc. because of the design of the blade or disk.

Regardless of the tool you choose, it is invaluable to be able to pink a seam or fabric edge quickly.

Pinked seams using pinking shears

After stitching the seam, simply trim the seam allowance with pinking shears or with a pinking tool and press the seam open.  How much fabric to trim will vary depending on your pattern seam allowance.  I prefer to leave about 1/4″ – 3/8″ remaining of seam allowance to be pressed open.  Pinked seams still fray somewhat resulting in a less professionally-looking finish, but pinking is advantageous in that it is quick and easy.

Pinked seams using a Singer Hand Crank Pinker. This is my favorite pinking tool; it's fast, easy, fun and doesn't tire the hands!

If the fabric unravels easily, then an extra step of straight-stitching just below the pinked edge will add greater stability to the seam allowance and prevent further unraveling as discussed in the straight stitch seam finish.

Sometimes I will pink all raw fabric edges immediately following a fabric purchase.  This prevents excessive unraveling or fraying of the fabric when I am pre-washing and shrinking it to prepare for pattern cut-out.  Granted, these are extra steps to your sewing project, but the finished result will preserve the garment seam for longer lasting wear.